The V8 Owners Forum -

The picture of the box contents shows the rod dimensions, a thicker one ie bigger inches in the same size jet will be leaner.
(just for info, Edelbrock part numbers don’t match your kit numbers - what your kit calls 130-6252, they call 1460, something to bear in mind if you need to order a size ...

Does anyone know what figure the flexplate to crankshaft and torque converter to flex plate bolts should be tightened to please?

I’d prefer to use spacers but so far have only found some made by Medice in America but they’re about £220 inc shipping and then add import duty etc and it’s just too pricey unfortunately.
It’s looking likely I’ll be gluing some gaskets together too then.

Does anyone know if YT roller rockers fit under these rockers boxes? (the rounded ones with grooves running front to back and Rover in the middle)
If not, is there a supplier of spacers? I have searched but no luck so far.

Just asking because some years ago I had problems with a well known brand (Elrings, there was a batch where the composite part was too thin so although they sealed the cylinders, oil leaked from the valley side and dripped from the head/block joint) and want to make sure I don’t get caught out again.

Are there any particular brands that are considered ‘better’ or any that are best to avoid?

I’ve a 4.6 Rover (carb not efi) and a 4.6 Range Rover ZF4HP22 with 24 internals & oil pump with the largest of the 3 torque converters and it’s converted to 2WD with Jaguar bits.
I don’t know the diff ratio but 5500rpm in locked up 4th is 118mph according to a run on a rolling road.
I don’t have a ...

Thanks for the reply but they look like the ones I already have - I expect there’s a difference in the stiffness of the rubber between suppliers but that’s not something you can tell until they’re fitted.
Yes, I found the polyurethane ones on here but unfortunately they’re different and would need ...

Thanks for that, those sort of things look ideal and even better, they’re something I can make instead of buying.

My 4.6 has p6 style round engine mounts and it does wobble a bit (no bodywork so I can see it moving) but didn’t touch anything.
But, when I swapped the LT77 for a ZF automatic the engine had to go forwards a little and now the nearside head sometimes hits the chassis.
I could alter the mounting ...

Go for top hats.
Liner slippage on 4.6 engines is well known especially if it’s been overheated and top hats don’t slip.
When rebuilding my 4.6 they’re what I used.

Yes, studs are definitely preferable but there isn’t room to turn nuts or bolt heads on my exhausts hence I’m using cap head bolts.
However I have a cunning plan to make 16 off 3/8” UNC internally threaded tubes the same O/D as the cap heads and screw a cap head into one end so I can do them up on ...

The box came with the stick and tube so I have to assume the builder used a matching set? It isn’t a RR sump but something shallower for ground clearance and the tube screwed in so I’ve used the level markings on the stick - the 22 and 24 cases are similar so I’d have thought the fluid level would ...

A friend's bought a Rover V8 trike with twin Strombergs and it doesn't run properly because not only has someone filed two huge great flats down each needle but they haven't even made the flats the same on each needle either so we're trying to get the needles out.
I don't know if this is relevent ...

Cheers for the replies, I've ordered a 3/8" UNC kit. They look easy enough to use as long as the drill goes in straight so I think I'll knock up a fixture to guide the drill - a thick lump of mild steel with a hole for the drill and a hole to bolt it to the other exhaust port thread should do it.