The V8 Owners Forum -

ERR2799 serp pully looks like it matches that damper.

No, the intermediate front cover uses a coolant pump designed for the serpentine belt - which runs on the back of the belt so runs the opposite way to the V belt coolant pump.
To use a V belt crank pulley - you'd need to change the whole front cover to the older cover.

If you need a new crank ...

If you're going to all that trouble I think I would also be looking at upping the displacement - can't really beat more CC for lower end torque (apart from a supercharger!).
For a landrover you need off idle torque, personally I would favour the H180 - though displacement helps tame a sportier cam ...

When I was 'musing' about "is it worth it to look at doing a DIY dry sump", I found it very visually useful - to get my sump, and fill with 'fluid' with the pick up roughly the right place, and literally tip the sump back and forwards to see how the liquid responds.

When doing this you soon realise ...

Now the question is ....do I do all the holes or just the stripped ones ......thinking that the p o had torqued all the studs and anything not actually stripped was likely to be close to stripped . Im inclined to do the 20 main holes as the p o did state that the other 8 ( along the outer edge of ...

I also had a stud pull out when torquing my ARP stud nuts down - so I did a helicoil by hand, using a second set of eyeballs and a couple engineers squares and it worked fine, though neaveracking! Used a two helicoils so I had enough thread engagement.

This is what I was thinking for a cheap drill ...

Can you clamp a drill press to your deck?

Yes, good point Ian, flow through these smaller pump inputs is by-passing the rad/stat, so will reduce cooling potential.
This bypass circuit is important when the stat is closed, to keep some coolant flow through the engine - but also important to limit this flow to give the rad the best chance of ...

The two small ports on the back of the coolant pump are both inlets.
Linking them together is fine, but neater to just blank one off.
Probably a chance for air to collect in the top of that copper jointing piece.

scudderfish wrote: Sun Apr 12, 2026 6:22 pm

-88- wrote: Sun Apr 12, 2026 5:10 pm

FBW wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2026 8:48 pm
Can the material withstand the expected temperatures permanently?

Material is PA18CF, heat resistance of approximately 180 degrees Celsius.

If your inlet manifold gets that hot, you're probably on fire.

There are many plastic engine parts on modern engines.

How is your valve train?
When I rebuild my engine my first rockers were crap - bigger bore than my worn OEM rockers!

Details here:
https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6474&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

Also what oil are you using?
I found 10w50 better in my older 3.5 with dizy ...

What do you mean - "it doesn't have liners"? Has someone removed them? as all RV8's have iron liners.

I rebuilt my 4.6 - had the same questions on liners.
I had the block pressure tested and found 3x were leaking so that was an easy decision for me in the end, to go with top hat liners and never ...

Seal runout allowance greatly depends on seal type - and shaft speeds.
This might give you some ideas:
https://www.skf.com/uk/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/radial-shaft-seals/technical-specification

But 17thou - nearly 0.5mm for me, is way too much.
Even it is 'works' at first ...

The thermostat housing and inlet manifold base.


Someone's modified that - it's not how GEMS were originally.
GEMS versions had a remote thermostat housing on the lower radiator hose - some call it a cows udder!! one of the pipes is a feed from the manifold to the back of this remote thermostat ...

Just on a slightly different topic but shows just how frustrating this all is in relation to what RPI supplied. Whilst watching videos on Rovergauge I came across a mention of a grounding plug for the diagnostics port which is there to prevent ECU interference. I had no idea this was supposed to ...