Hi. I'm Hernan ,form Argentina where V8's are not so common. I have a friend who changed his 6-in-line Chevrolet 250 for the mighty 350. Almost everything is new. He bought mostly everything from Summit.
The problem... its starts good, runs good but when it gets 3500 RPM the engine literally dies... We tried almost everything.
Did any of you have the same problem?
Thanks.
Problem with Chevrolet 350
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CastleMGBV8
- Top Dog
- Posts: 2334
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
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Yes it could well be fuel starvation, is it carburettor fed, what fuel pump do you have and what pressure are you running it at, you want about 5.5 PSI for a Holley or Edelbrock.
It could also be ignition, does the car have an electronic rev counter, if so drive the car and as it cuts out watch the rev counter, if the needle goes to zero then it's the low tension side of the coil and you probably need to replace the coil, but do make sure you get one that is matched to your ignition system and distributor.
Kevin.
It could also be ignition, does the car have an electronic rev counter, if so drive the car and as it cuts out watch the rev counter, if the needle goes to zero then it's the low tension side of the coil and you probably need to replace the coil, but do make sure you get one that is matched to your ignition system and distributor.
Kevin.
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Langostinoanus
- Newbie
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- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:57 pm
The 1st thing we tried was switching carburator.
We tried 3 differents carbs.
We gave the engine more fuel.
We disconnect the meter (It used to work fine with the 6-in-line engine. we didn't about the V8). 'cause the failure sounds like when you set the meter to x RPM and you reach that limit.
We check the valves...
Tonight we are going to switch the distributor.
As you may have noticed, i do speak english but i don't know many mechanical terms.
Thanks!
We tried 3 differents carbs.
We gave the engine more fuel.
We disconnect the meter (It used to work fine with the 6-in-line engine. we didn't about the V8). 'cause the failure sounds like when you set the meter to x RPM and you reach that limit.
We check the valves...
Tonight we are going to switch the distributor.
As you may have noticed, i do speak english but i don't know many mechanical terms.
Thanks!
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Ian Anderson
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 2448
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Check the earthing connection to the engine.
Check the wiring to the distributor
check the wiring from the alternator
Does anything pull tight when the engine is revved / does the engine move on the mounts? if it is it may be a broken wire inside the insulation of one of the wires going to / from the engine
Easy enough to run an extra wire on each when testing to isolate the problem wire. (Piece of wire (heavy duty) and a pair of crocodile clips. Battery jump leads from negative of battery to the engine as a backup earth.
Is it on points in the distributor - if so check the gap and change the condensor.
Ian
Check the wiring to the distributor
check the wiring from the alternator
Does anything pull tight when the engine is revved / does the engine move on the mounts? if it is it may be a broken wire inside the insulation of one of the wires going to / from the engine
Easy enough to run an extra wire on each when testing to isolate the problem wire. (Piece of wire (heavy duty) and a pair of crocodile clips. Battery jump leads from negative of battery to the engine as a backup earth.
Is it on points in the distributor - if so check the gap and change the condensor.
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
