Whats the bung/plug for in the oil cooler take-off

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:08 pm

Can anyone tell me what the plug is for in the oil cooler take off?(As on pic, just above the oil cooler hose take-offs) One reason for asking apart from just wanting to know

is, i have just replaced the oil cooler hoses with some bling stainless steel hoses, if the plug doest serve any purpose, could i pour some oil through here to prime the new hoses

or wouldnt it make a difference

Just getting a bit paranoid with the sump plug & oil filter having been left out for a week regarding the oil pump priming, V8D have said there should be no prob as long as the front cover hasnt been off.

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GreenV8S · Post by **GreenV8S** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:33 pm

If I'm looking at the right thing, it's the cover for the pressure relief valve.

Post by **katanaman** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:13 pm

its for the pressure relief valve.

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:05 pm

So the take off plate? thats fitted, Is it a standard type on a SD1:?:

Just getting a bit confused with such as Mocal listing one with a inbuilt stat? i presume mine asnt?

On the other subject re; priming, any do's or dont's with fitting the new oil cooler hoses?

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:15 pm

you can allways fill the cooler via the hoses and back to the pump, I reprimed a old P6 engine this way,
Ian

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:26 pm

Am i worrying over nothing

Should i just start it up and watch the oil pressure gauge rise

V8D suggested blipping the throttle as soon as it fires and this should bring the pressure up imediatly. or turn it over with no plugs and the fuel pump switched off

GreenV8S · Post by **GreenV8S** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:11 pm

Sandwich plates come with and without integral stats, it isn't possible to see from that picture which sort that is.

Turning the engine over on the starter doesn't seem like a good way to get oil pressure up, to me. The faster the pump is turning the more likely it is to prime, and I would have thought that ten seconds at 2000 rpm would be more effective and less damaging than 10 minutes at 100 rpm. If it does't prime straight away then you always have the option of back-filling it via the oil hose, making sure you get the right one i.e. the one connected to the outside (feed) fom the head.

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:01 pm

GreenV8S wrote: you always have the option of back-filling it via the oil hose, making sure you get the right one i.e. the one connected to the outside (feed) fom the head.

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:01 pm

S--- these seem really dumb questions

.
Looking at the pic

A/ Have i got a oil thermostat??? If not would anyone recomend the type that fits into the oil cooler hoses (Remote stat)

B/ what is the flow direction (In & Out) looking at the two oil cooler hose connectors???

I would hate to fit a remote thermostat for somone or the engine

to tell me later i have already have one

GreenV8S · Post by **GreenV8S** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:48 pm

The built-in stat consists of a bullet shaped plug moving in an oilway which is clearly visible if you take the sandwich plate off, and from outside you can see a blanking plug on the outside (but not visible from the angle your picture was taken).

You do want an oil stat if you're fitting a cooler, and if you don't have an internal one then one of those H shaped external ones would be an option.

To see the oil flow direction you need to take the sandwich plate off and look at the internal passages. The oil filter head has a set of holes round the outside that are fed from the pump, and a central return which takes the oil to the engine. With the sandwich plate in your hand it is easy to see which hose is which. To prime the pump you obviously need to feed oil down the hose that is the outlet from the pump, dribbling oil into the rest of the engine won't do anything!

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:08 am

I've had problems in the past with pumps not priming when starting an engine after it's been sat for a while.

Now I always prime using a hand drill and special tool (modified M12 bolt!) on the oil pump drive in the distributor hole.
And with a remote filter I always have to fill the pipes with oil to get it to prime.

Chris.

leylandracer · Post by **leylandracer** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:05 pm

Sorted, took a chance and bliped the throttle as soon as it fired up within 10 secs the oil light was out. and the pressure gauge followed a couple of seconds later

In the future though ill do a bit of forward planning before i leave the sump empty for a while

Is this the correct procedure for a RV8 oil change?

Heat up the oil by letting the engine run for a few minutes, or drive a few miles.
Place a container (more than 5-litre capacity) under the sump plug.
Unscrew the plug and the oil will spurt out. After all oil is drained screw in the plug and tighten.
Fill with at least 4-litres of oil the engine
Take a new oil filter and pre-fill it with new oil and smear the seal with oil
Unscrew the oil filter.
because the filter will be greasy get an oil filter removal tool or use an old screw driver and push it through the filter (not recommended! as this method loses to much oil before the new filter can be placed).
It is important to immediately screw on the new filter to prevent to much oil leaking from the oil pump because this pump doesn't prime itself!
Tighten the filter by hand. Take care not to damage the thread. When seated correctly tighten further 1/2 turn by hand. Do not overtighten!
Start the engine and check for oil pressure and for leaks
If there is no pressure the pump has to be primed. Stop the engine immediately.
Look at "Priming the V8 oil pump"
Stop the engine and top-up the oil level till the upper mark of the dipstick.

GreenV8S · Post by **GreenV8S** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:18 pm

I don't if it makes much practical difference, but I prefer NOT to fill the filter before fitting. The filter is downstream from the pump, so my theory is the more air there is in the system the more 'squish' there is so the less resistance to whatever flow the pump produces while it is priming. It means it takes longer for the oil to build up pressure and get to the bearings, but my theory is it increases the chances of the pump priming/staying primed. As I say, just a theory.