Running without thermostat

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:44 pm

Hi
You have a nice big hole in the front for the air to get in, how big a hole do you have for the air to get out? when mooving I can see the air escaping below the engine bay but when moving slowley it is going to want to come out the top and sides. also you dont seem to have any ducting inside the nose cone to direct the cool air into the Rad and stop it bypassing the rad altogether.
Best regards
Mike

jetskijase · Post by **jetskijase** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 2:05 pm

HI Mike
i have boxed in the front of my rad in the nose cone and got a puller fan covering the rear of the rad as much as i can,

i wonder if a pusher fan in the front of the rad would be better?? freeing up the rear of the rad maybe??

or what is the opinion of running 2 fans, 1 puller and one pusher?

I checked my idle mixture last night which was very lean around 1.2 on my old gastester! adjusted upto 2.6 about 13.5 afr, this did cool the exhaust done a bit, but still crept upto 100 in the garge.
also i am now using the right vac port, looking at the front of the edlebrock 500, this increased my advance to 11 degress static.

Tom, nice build! very tight, but i have lots of room where you have put the supercharger also!!!mmm!!!

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 3:04 pm

Hi I would stick with a pull through the rad it is meant to work better, the boxing in is definatly worth it, however I recon more holes to let the air out would be a very good idea especially in the bonnet/ engine cover area, between the engine and the rad. You could always mist water from infront of the rad when the fans come on to help in traffic, might give some of those around you a shock though.
Best regards
Mike

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 3:30 pm

How close is the front of your fan to the rad?

The closer the better as there is some "bleed" around the sides of the fan thus drawing hot air back in as opposed to drawing cool air in through the radiator

Ian

jetskijase · Post by **jetskijase** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 4:34 pm

HI Ian
its actually cable tied to the rad itself with those push through ties. i'am getting a cool circle in the middle of the rad and hot in the corners which is why i thought a pusher in the front of my box might cool the whole rad??

Mike, good idea referance water!! i could run a tube from my washer bottle to the front!! never used them on my small screen anyway!!although it might just evaporate right off the rad??

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:18 pm

Mike, good idea referance water!! i could run a tube from my washer bottle to the front!! never used them on my small screen anyway!!although it might just evaporate right off the rad??[/quote]

Perfect
Evaporate water
1) water must first get to near 100 degrees - it takes 4200 joules per kg per degree celsius to heat the sprayed water - this will be drawn from the radiator and coolant
2) water turns to steam - now my memory fades but I believe somethin loke 2800 joules per kg of water

Actually water is one of the best substances for absorbing energy like this

Ian

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 4:21 pm

Only noticed the other day- my temp gauge will read mid 80's, however my fan switch comes on lower than that and the fan only runs when the engine has stopped for a few seconds- which means the rad is a lot cooler than the engine, so the rad must be fine but maybe my high top hose is not allowing very efficient flow. Not much I can do about it for now! Maybe running a higher pressure rad cap would help.