Crank driven oil pump - vaseline question!
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As today seems a good day for everyone to learn something, answer these questions:
1. I know the new pump is driven by the woodruff in the crank nose and I know exactly how the gears look, but how the hell does it work!
2. Why is it important the the gears are marked and aseembled with the same tooth engaging, but why? doesn't look any different.
1. I know the new pump is driven by the woodruff in the crank nose and I know exactly how the gears look, but how the hell does it work!
2. Why is it important the the gears are marked and aseembled with the same tooth engaging, but why? doesn't look any different.
1. http://www.animatedsoftware.com/pumpglos/crescent.htmadamnreeves wrote:As today seems a good day for everyone to learn something, answer these questions:
1. I know the new pump is driven by the woodruff in the crank nose and I know exactly how the gears look, but how the hell does it work!
2. Why is it important the the gears are marked and aseembled with the same tooth engaging, but why? doesn't look any different.
2. I would assume it does not matter in the real world but is good practice

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Thanks, that's a good demonstration.
pitsnow wrote:1. http://www.animatedsoftware.com/pumpglos/crescent.htmadamnreeves wrote:As today seems a good day for everyone to learn something, answer these questions:
1. I know the new pump is driven by the woodruff in the crank nose and I know exactly how the gears look, but how the hell does it work!
2. Why is it important the the gears are marked and aseembled with the same tooth engaging, but why? doesn't look any different.
2. I would assume it does not matter in the real world but is good practice
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Erm, I think I know what you mean, as long as the fit is relatively tight I suppose.
davemgb wrote:The pump should not be driven by the key - neither is the front pulley or timing chain. The key holds everything in line until you do up the big bolt in the end of the crank, then friction drives the components threaded on to the crank nose. At least that is the traditional engineering answer.
Dave
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The marking of the gears are for assy reasons, normally most gear displacement pumps are made with a "Hunting Tooth", this ensures that the number of teeth do not divide exactly into the other teeth so the wear is constant thrughout the running of the pump, IE if you have a 8 tooth gear running against a 8 tooth gear, the same teeth will allways fall on same teeth, if you have 8 & 9 teeth they will allways be rotating so the wear will be constant. 

THE SMOKING GNU
12.604 with an old boiler of a RV8 and no gas
WHY are there so many IANS on this site???????
12.604 with an old boiler of a RV8 and no gas
WHY are there so many IANS on this site???????
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Neat.
ian.stewart wrote:The marking of the gears are for assy reasons, normally most gear displacement pumps are made with a "Hunting Tooth", this ensures that the number of teeth do not divide exactly into the other teeth so the wear is constant thrughout the running of the pump, IE if you have a 8 tooth gear running against a 8 tooth gear, the same teeth will
allways fall on same teeth, if you have 8 & 9 teeth they will allways be rotating so the wear will be constant.
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Regarding lubrication of the gears before assembly, I know that normally just engine oil and I know someone on this thread said gear oil as it is thicker. I have had a brain wave, I bought rather too much cam lube and have loads left, you know the red thick stuff which is suppose to stick to the cam lubes pretty well. I could use that ? Worst case scenario is that this engine I am building may not be started for upto 12 months, I hope it will not be that long, but you never know.
I now what your saying but I don't agree that the parts wouldn't slip without the key being there. When there is slip there is wear, more wear more slip until you have no more friction and everything just spins. Granted the key isn't the only means of drive but its very important that its there and not just for alignment on assembly.davemgb wrote:The pump should not be driven by the key - neither is the front pulley or timing chain. The key holds everything in line until you do up the big bolt in the end of the crank, then friction drives the components threaded on to the crank nose. At least that is the traditional engineering answer.
Dave
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Guys
I think I canstop learning for a few days following this threadQ
Amazing knowledge on the forum as usual
cheers
Ian
I think I canstop learning for a few days following this threadQ
Amazing knowledge on the forum as usual
cheers
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.