Pete,
Thanks for your comment, it's only a temporary issue thankfully but has caused the family a lot of pain.
On a positive front the spring kit arrived this morning so am looking at reasembling the dizzy with your recommended springs,
One more question, are the lugs on the underside of the top shaft section which the star wheel and rotor arm attach to, meant to fit into the recesses in the centrifugal weights as they would seem to restrict the amount the weights can move and therefore the advance.
It's difficult to see once you slide the top shaft back on.
Kevin.
Ignition Advance Revisited.
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CastleMGBV8
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CastleMGBV8
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Pete,
Job done
only fiddly bits were fitting the second spring and making sure the star wheel aligned with the plastic cog.
My star wheel was a very snug fit on the shaft so just cleaned it up with a bit of wet and dry, noted the position of the largest cog on the plastic bit, aligned the star wheel correctly and it pushed straight on, fitted the rubber O ring and washer but found the circlip had stretched during removal so gave it a gentle squeeze in a pair of mole grips to re-size it and it fitted fine.
Nothing like a bit of sucess to make you feel better and I've saved myself about £80,00 which is what people over in the UK charge to strip and re-curve a distributor, but of course you have to know which springs to fit, so thanks to you for having done the groundwork and the helpful advice.
Have noted that Des Hamill recommends no more than 28 degrees of total advance for a 4.6 so will time mine at 30 and work the static back from there and see how it runs.
Kevin.
Job done
only fiddly bits were fitting the second spring and making sure the star wheel aligned with the plastic cog.My star wheel was a very snug fit on the shaft so just cleaned it up with a bit of wet and dry, noted the position of the largest cog on the plastic bit, aligned the star wheel correctly and it pushed straight on, fitted the rubber O ring and washer but found the circlip had stretched during removal so gave it a gentle squeeze in a pair of mole grips to re-size it and it fitted fine.
Nothing like a bit of sucess to make you feel better and I've saved myself about £80,00 which is what people over in the UK charge to strip and re-curve a distributor, but of course you have to know which springs to fit, so thanks to you for having done the groundwork and the helpful advice.
Have noted that Des Hamill recommends no more than 28 degrees of total advance for a 4.6 so will time mine at 30 and work the static back from there and see how it runs.
Kevin.
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CastleMGBV8
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Just a thought, when I replaced the amp on my other distributor some time ago it came with a silicon type substance that you smear over the rear surface of the amp prior to fitting.
Firstly what does this stuff do, and do i need to get some of what ever it is when refitting the amp on the rebuilt distributor.
Kevin.
Firstly what does this stuff do, and do i need to get some of what ever it is when refitting the amp on the rebuilt distributor.
Kevin.
CastleMGBV8 wrote:Just a thought, when I replaced the amp on my other distributor some time ago it came with a silicon type substance that you smear over the rear surface of the amp prior to fitting.
Firstly what does this stuff do, and do i need to get some of what ever it is when refitting the amp on the rebuilt distributor.
Kevin.
It's a heat sink compound. I'm in two minds as the whether it's any good, it could end up transfering the heat FROM the engine and dizzy TO the amp.
My amp does not have any of the stuff on it and has been OK. Anyway you can buy it in small amounts from Maplins.
Hope is all going well!
What are you going to do to stop the top shaft coming of the bottom shaft? (You might be able to drill and tap the centre of the shaft and fit a small bolt in the middle...I chickened out in case I knackered something!).
Pete
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CastleMGBV8
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CastleMGBV8 wrote:Pete,
Have I missed something?
The dizzy went back together in the reverse order of dismantling with all original parts, apart from the springs present.
I assumed that the upper shaft was kept in place by the electronics plate.
Kevin,
Yes mate you have missed something!
You should NOT be able to pull the top (or outer) shaft off the bottom (or inner) shaft at all You should NOT be able to remove the bob weights!
Just under where the rotor arm sits there was a plastic clip that clicked into a groove in the centre shaft that stopped the other one comming off.
You could run the dizzy as is and it will OK but if you ever pull the rotor arm off you will probably stretch you nice new bob weight springs!
Pete
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CastleMGBV8
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Pete,
Ah, I see where you mean, in the hollow part of the upper shaft where the slimmer part of the lower shaft projects through.
There wasn't a clip visible when I dismantled the dizzy but it could have popped out when I first tried to remove the trigger wheel.
I assume these clips are unobtainable, but a small metal circlip that matches the diameter of the shaft would work.
Just had another look and spotted the small thinwall brass/copper bush that came with the Moroso spring kit and it looks like it could be drifted onto the shaft with a small socket. Don't know what it was for but probably not for the Lucas dizzy.
Kevin.
Ah, I see where you mean, in the hollow part of the upper shaft where the slimmer part of the lower shaft projects through.
There wasn't a clip visible when I dismantled the dizzy but it could have popped out when I first tried to remove the trigger wheel.
I assume these clips are unobtainable, but a small metal circlip that matches the diameter of the shaft would work.
Just had another look and spotted the small thinwall brass/copper bush that came with the Moroso spring kit and it looks like it could be drifted onto the shaft with a small socket. Don't know what it was for but probably not for the Lucas dizzy.
Kevin.
CastleMGBV8 wrote:Pete,
Ah, I see where you mean, in the hollow part of the upper shaft where the slimmer part of the lower shaft projects through.
There wasn't a clip visible when I dismantled the dizzy but it could have popped out when I first tried to remove the trigger wheel.
I assume these clips are unobtainable, but a small metal circlip that matches the diameter of the shaft would work.
Just had another look and spotted the small thinwall brass/copper bush that came with the Moroso spring kit and it looks like it could be drifted onto the shaft with a small socket. Don't know what it was for but probably not for the Lucas dizzy.
Kevin.
Hi Kevin,
You are looking in the right area but the clip has probably been missing for ages! (I don't think you can buy them).
The copper ring that cmes in the spring kit is a mechanical advance restrictor, it goes over the spring peg, the one that acts as a stopper for the mechanical adavance. It won't fit your dizzy anyway as it's too thick so you may as well see if you can knock it over the thin shaft!
The thin shaft does have a groove in it and this is what I was wrapping some lock wire round. To gain access I made the slot for the rotor arm a bit deeper. I bunged a couple of small washers on the thin shaft then the lock wire. I guess my rotor shaft has 0.25-0.5mm vertical play, be careful not to knock the copper ring on too far and thus end up locking up the mechanism!
Pete
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CastleMGBV8
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Pete,
Checked with Aldon (not helpful) and H & H who are helpful but the plastic clips are unavailable.
Decided to restrip the dizzy in case I had dislodged the springs but sll ok.
I going up to my local tool store to see if I can find some circlips or the type of washers with internal tags that you just push down do they sit in the groove and will retain the upper shaft. If they have the right size I'll get a couple of extras and if you want them iIll pop them in the post too you.
I'll feel happier with that upper shaft being properly located as there's always the risk of forgetting when removing the rotor arm and then your
f---ked.
Kevin.
Checked with Aldon (not helpful) and H & H who are helpful but the plastic clips are unavailable.
Decided to restrip the dizzy in case I had dislodged the springs but sll ok.
I going up to my local tool store to see if I can find some circlips or the type of washers with internal tags that you just push down do they sit in the groove and will retain the upper shaft. If they have the right size I'll get a couple of extras and if you want them iIll pop them in the post too you.
I'll feel happier with that upper shaft being properly located as there's always the risk of forgetting when removing the rotor arm and then your
f---ked.
Kevin.
Hi Kevin,CastleMGBV8 wrote:Pete,
Checked with Aldon (not helpful) and H & H who are helpful but the plastic clips are unavailable.
Decided to restrip the dizzy in case I had dislodged the springs but sll ok.
I going up to my local tool store to see if I can find some circlips or the type of washers with internal tags that you just push down do they sit in the groove and will retain the upper shaft. If they have the right size I'll get a couple of extras and if you want them iIll pop them in the post too you.
I'll feel happier with that upper shaft being properly located as there's always the risk of forgetting when removing the rotor arm and then your
f---ked.
Kevin.
You'll be able to strip that dizzy with your eyes closed before long!
Its a very good idea to fix the top shaft on by some means or other.
Good luck finding a clip, and you will need luck to get one just the right size!
Also if you do get a clip on you might never get it off again. You will probably still need a couple of normal washers to get the end float right. The washers that grip the shaft might do the trick as the locking washer.
If you don't find anything suitable let me know. I can make up some "pre-formed" lock wire "jobbies" for you. You would just need to dremel the rotor arm slot a bit deeper so that you can grab the lock wire square to the shaft with a normal pair of pliers, you can then do the final few twists by hand. The twisted bit is then cut off with a tag of around 8mm and tucked up inside the shaft. If you ever need to get the thing off you can grap the wire and break it off. (If you give me the diameter of the thin shaft I can form the "jobbies" around a right sized drill bit)
I can make you 10 "jobbies" in about 3 minutes if you need them. You have to find some shim washers though as I know I haven't got any spare, it took me an hour to fettle some up for my own dizzy.
Cheers,
Pete
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CastleMGBV8
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Pete,
Getting cross eyed, but it really is done now.
Took the dizzy up to the tool shop and got three washers that just fitted snugly inside the shaft and a small circlip.
when I got back and started putting it together I realised that there are two grooves in the shaft the lower one for retaining the star wheel and I had it on the upper one which meant the clip was loose and the star wheel was not properly retained, struggled to move the circlip down to the next groove and finally it clicked in.
Right just the final circlip to fit on the top of the shaft, found the one I bought was slightly too big but gave it a squeeze to elongate it and narrow the centre section and it slipped on nicely and cant move because it's also wedged in by the inner wall of the shaft, but could be removed quite easily if necessary.
End of saga I hope.
Thanks,
Kevin
Getting cross eyed, but it really is done now.
Took the dizzy up to the tool shop and got three washers that just fitted snugly inside the shaft and a small circlip.
when I got back and started putting it together I realised that there are two grooves in the shaft the lower one for retaining the star wheel and I had it on the upper one which meant the clip was loose and the star wheel was not properly retained, struggled to move the circlip down to the next groove and finally it clicked in.
Right just the final circlip to fit on the top of the shaft, found the one I bought was slightly too big but gave it a squeeze to elongate it and narrow the centre section and it slipped on nicely and cant move because it's also wedged in by the inner wall of the shaft, but could be removed quite easily if necessary.
End of saga I hope.
Thanks,
Kevin
