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I am about ready to start my engine for the first time (3.5 RV8 in a GD Cobra ) and need to set up the timing, both before, but most importantly I guess, after I have lifted out the Dizzy to prime the engine. Can anyone advise me on setting the thing up (I have a Haynes manual but would prefer to take someones experience on this). The Dizzy I have is a Lucas "Opus" 35DE8. Its the original type but has been renovated by Jim Robinson of RV8 who assures me it will be fine. I think they had an overheating problem after a while, but this one is in essence a "new" one now. I have a timing pointer on the engine but hear that they are not particularly accurate. Just need the benefit of you guy's experience please!!
Thanks
Martin
Setting timing up - Rover 3.5 V8
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I never use the timing marks because I can't see them for all the pulleys & belts.
So I turn the engine until no. 1 is at TDC between compression & firing strokes (which you can verify by checking that both valves on no. 6 are open). Then I set the timing so that it's just about to fire on no. 1.
That should be sufficient to get it started.
Then I just retard the timing until it pinks, then advance it a crack....
Chris.
So I turn the engine until no. 1 is at TDC between compression & firing strokes (which you can verify by checking that both valves on no. 6 are open). Then I set the timing so that it's just about to fire on no. 1.
That should be sufficient to get it started.
Then I just retard the timing until it pinks, then advance it a crack....
Chris.
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Like ChrisJC, I can`t see my timing marks for similar reasons, so I take rocker cover off left hand side, set piston no 1 to TDC on compression stroke by watching where the rocker arms go and position rotor arm just before firing on number 1 lead, worked ok, then adjust it till it sounds about right
a bit primative but does for an old Landy

a bit primative but does for an old Landy
1982 Series 3 88" V8
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Hello Martin,
You already have advice for initial position/setting of the dizzy.
The main reason folks dont use the timing marks is grime/visibility.
Use a rag soaked in petrol or white spirit to clean all the grime off the outer circumference of the damper/front pulley and the marks will now be visible.
Now fill the engravings with white wax crayon or tippex and the marks will stand out like stars on a moonless night.
There is no reason why the marks will be inaccurate unless the damper has broken up internally or the pointer has been trashed. If they are both in good nick, use your timing lamp to set the timing to approx 8 degrees BTDC less 4 degrees if using unleaded petrol.
When the engine is running, it should be OK to use until you are properly mobile when you can cruise the car, making minor adjustments to the timing (with a partially loosened dizzy) until the pinking just disappears under heavy load depending upon what grade of fuel you are planning to use consistently.
You already have advice for initial position/setting of the dizzy.
The main reason folks dont use the timing marks is grime/visibility.
Use a rag soaked in petrol or white spirit to clean all the grime off the outer circumference of the damper/front pulley and the marks will now be visible.
Now fill the engravings with white wax crayon or tippex and the marks will stand out like stars on a moonless night.
There is no reason why the marks will be inaccurate unless the damper has broken up internally or the pointer has been trashed. If they are both in good nick, use your timing lamp to set the timing to approx 8 degrees BTDC less 4 degrees if using unleaded petrol.
When the engine is running, it should be OK to use until you are properly mobile when you can cruise the car, making minor adjustments to the timing (with a partially loosened dizzy) until the pinking just disappears under heavy load depending upon what grade of fuel you are planning to use consistently.