before i begin?
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before i begin?
hi all, just managed to get meself a 3.5v8 on su's from origins unknown.
before i start the tsak of fitting the engine in is there anything that i could replace while it's out for future reliability issues?
also is there any way of finding out what the engine was in originally?
cheers,
Garry
before i start the tsak of fitting the engine in is there anything that i could replace while it's out for future reliability issues?
also is there any way of finding out what the engine was in originally?
cheers,
Garry
Any idea of age, milage?
If it has done more than 60-70K I would change cam tappets and timing chain and gears (maybe upgrade to a slightly hotter cam aswell). I would do the oil pump aswell.
It would be a good idea to strip and clean the carbs and float bowls and lubricate the linkages especially if it has been stored for any time.
Mike
If it has done more than 60-70K I would change cam tappets and timing chain and gears (maybe upgrade to a slightly hotter cam aswell). I would do the oil pump aswell.
It would be a good idea to strip and clean the carbs and float bowls and lubricate the linkages especially if it has been stored for any time.
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Try to avoid the hi-flo oil pump kit if you intend to rag it a bit. It tends to add a bit of stress to the dissy drive.
Do the bits Mike says and see if you can fit the Cloyes true roller timing chain gear. This will last for ages and is much better than the old plastic stuff.
Also see if the front crank oil seal is the rope type. If it is you can mod this to fit a decent rubber seal in 10 mins with the front cover on the bench.
If you dont mind a bit of tappet noise at low rpm's, bleed down lifters with a Typhoon cam or similar can make a pleasing difference when you hit 3700 rpm.
Where do you stop?
If its on the floor you could have the block bored and honed and get the thing properly balanced. And fit the rings to match. This will all pay dividends in the long run.
Take the heads off and as a minimum at least clean them up and lap the valves in a bit. You will find it wont be long before you see just how tuneable the Rover V8 is mate. So many tweaks that you can do for not a lot of cash.
For the engine info just look for the numbers on the passengers side of the block or the numbers on the ears of the block at the rear.
You will be able to find out what the engine is from the engine numbers section on here.
Where are you based Garth?
Do the bits Mike says and see if you can fit the Cloyes true roller timing chain gear. This will last for ages and is much better than the old plastic stuff.
Also see if the front crank oil seal is the rope type. If it is you can mod this to fit a decent rubber seal in 10 mins with the front cover on the bench.
If you dont mind a bit of tappet noise at low rpm's, bleed down lifters with a Typhoon cam or similar can make a pleasing difference when you hit 3700 rpm.
Where do you stop?
If its on the floor you could have the block bored and honed and get the thing properly balanced. And fit the rings to match. This will all pay dividends in the long run.
Take the heads off and as a minimum at least clean them up and lap the valves in a bit. You will find it wont be long before you see just how tuneable the Rover V8 is mate. So many tweaks that you can do for not a lot of cash.
For the engine info just look for the numbers on the passengers side of the block or the numbers on the ears of the block at the rear.
You will be able to find out what the engine is from the engine numbers section on here.
Where are you based Garth?
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
originally its a P5 engine with 10.5:1 compression. http://www.v8scimitar.co.uk/web/Technic ... fault.aspx
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- Top Dog
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From the information, it would certainly appear to be a Range Rover engine. built somewhere between 1970 and 1983.
The engines fitted into the Rover P5B luxury car from 1967 till 1973 were all 10.5 : 1 CR engines.
Garth.....as an indicator of possible action to persue, when looking into the rocker cover with the oil filler cap removed, what colour do you see?
Silver...nice and new
Brown from light to mid shade...still ok
Brown dark....be wary, possible high mileage, but looked after well
Black.............neglected, insufficient oil changes
Is your intention just to use the engine once fitted into your car as an everyday street car, or did you have something else in mind?
Ron.
The engines fitted into the Rover P5B luxury car from 1967 till 1973 were all 10.5 : 1 CR engines.
Garth.....as an indicator of possible action to persue, when looking into the rocker cover with the oil filler cap removed, what colour do you see?
Silver...nice and new
Brown from light to mid shade...still ok
Brown dark....be wary, possible high mileage, but looked after well
Black.............neglected, insufficient oil changes
Is your intention just to use the engine once fitted into your car as an everyday street car, or did you have something else in mind?
Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B
Garry,
The main distinction between those Rover V8 engines fitted into Rover cars, and those fitted into Land Rover or Range Rovers was in the compression ratios and the type of fuel delivery system used, ie carburettors or fuel injection. There were also differences in timing cover and water pump design.
The interface to the transmission is the same regardless, so you can use a Borg Warner 35 or 65, GM 180, or ZF. Any transmission fitted behind any Rover engine of any capacity or any variation will fit behind any other Rover V8 engine.
Ron.
The main distinction between those Rover V8 engines fitted into Rover cars, and those fitted into Land Rover or Range Rovers was in the compression ratios and the type of fuel delivery system used, ie carburettors or fuel injection. There were also differences in timing cover and water pump design.
The interface to the transmission is the same regardless, so you can use a Borg Warner 35 or 65, GM 180, or ZF. Any transmission fitted behind any Rover engine of any capacity or any variation will fit behind any other Rover V8 engine.
Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B
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- Forum Contributor
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- Location: Northern Ireland
Doesnt a Typhoon require valve guide mods due to the lift ?mgbv8 wrote: If you dont mind a bit of tappet noise at low rpm's, bleed down lifters with a Typhoon cam or similar can make a pleasing difference when you hit 3700 rpm.
I may have a Hurricane here....if someone could enlighten me as to the markings on one lol. Im sure I do.
Also have a Rovercraft RC87, it is marked

I am assuming I havent thrown these out though... Both are very low milage.
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
Yes Stevie.
You need to take a bit off the top of the guides.
You need to take a bit off the top of the guides.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw