torque settings?

kokkolanpoika · Post by **kokkolanpoika** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 6:42 pm

Does anybody know torque settings for "Rover v8" H-beam rods?
Not sure about their producer..
Do i have to use same as original 3,5 RV8 about 45-47Nm
Or same as 4,6?? About 20Nm + 90deg if remember right?
Any?
And another question is can i use those bolts again/2nd time?

http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/73/stroker5ww2.jpg

kokkolanpoika · Post by **kokkolanpoika** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:32 pm

Up..

Any ideas..

HairbearTE · Post by **HairbearTE** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 12:00 am

Use the settings recommended by the manufacturer of the bolts. If you don't know who that is then it might be a good idea to replace them as a matter of course. You can then re-use the new bolts if needed as long as they stay within spec. (measure them, you're bolt manufacturer will include a spec sheet that will let you know how much bolt stretch is acceptable.) I have ARP 2000 bolts in my eagle h-beam rods and a spec sheet was supplied with them.

kokkolanpoika · Post by **kokkolanpoika** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:11 pm

Thanks for the info.. I have to buy ARP bolts for my local suplier..

kokkolanpoika · Post by **kokkolanpoika** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:23 pm

Hi again..

Need more info again..

I just receive ARP rod bolts for Manley rods (replacement bolts 200-6006) Those are only suitable bolts for my aplications..

So question is, i receive those bolts and washer`s. So do i have to use those washers? In original installation there is no washer.

So do i have to install washer´s or no?

I think i cant use washer because there is no enought room for those bolts vs block.. Clearance maybe a proplem?
Also i measure old bolt and new bolt "nut face" older bolt face is 2,5mm "smaller" = more clearance on block and bolt..

Hmm.. so is my only choice to litle lathe those bolts..

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:46 pm

Hi
I do not have washers on the bolts on my H beam rods ( see photos on my build up thread) I would not think it a good idea to start cutting the ends off the heads of the bolts if I were you these high tensile bolts are not intended to be cut about like you can with a mild steel bolt, the whole thing is forge formed, rolled threads, roll forged shaft and forged bolt head and load face. To get clearance grind the block if you have to, ( I would imagine you will have to to clear the crank ), all part of the mock up process I'm afraid.
Best regards
Mike

kokkolanpoika · Post by **kokkolanpoika** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:45 pm

kiwicar wrote:Hi
I do not have washers on the bolts on my H beam rods ( see photos on my build up thread) I would not think it a good idea to start cutting the ends off the heads of the bolts if I were you these high tensile bolts are not intended to be cut about like you can with a mild steel bolt, the whole thing is forge formed, rolled threads, roll forged shaft and forged bolt head and load face. To get clearance grind the block if you have to, ( I would imagine you will have to to clear the crank ), all part of the mock up process I'm afraid.
Best regards
Mike

My block has been grindet couple of millimeters in the oil "tube" point.. Just there where rod bolt may touch?? I think that those rod "original" bolts are cutted/lathed, because they look just identical with my new arp bolts, but "bolt face" is about 2mm lower.. And bolt face is scathing, not sou "rounded" as my new arp..
And face looks like it is lathed away.. and also thread looks lathed ~1mm.

Picture (poor quality)

And when i explode this engine.. it is look like that block and bolt have 1-2mm clearance (with old bolts) in the oil "tube" point..

I have to build engine again and have a look then..