Help! Have I screwd up? Taking BW65 gearbox off.

[rich112]

I have a Rover v8 with Borg Warner 65 gearbox on.

I've just taken the engine and gearbox out of the car.

I seperated the gearbox from the engine, without undoing the torque converter to flex plate bolts...

I've since read that this is not a good idea as refitting can damage the gearbox?

Is this true or is it only a problem with more modern gearboxes?

Looking at the gearbox, there are two coaxial splined shafts and a two pronged/sloted ring which obviously all has to mate with the internals of the torque converter.

As I have not rotated the crank or gearbox, shouldn't I just be able to take the torque converter off and slide it back onto the gearbox, if I'm careful to align it?

[paul c]

when you try to fit it again stand the box up on its tailhousing so you can fit the convertor flat onto the shafts, normally one will mate before the other and slight rotation might be needed just being careful of the seals. It is normally not possible for them to go back in with the box sitting level. It should all be okay though, have done it several times.

[rich112]

when you try to fit it again stand the box up on its tailhousing so you can fit the convertor flat onto the shafts, normally one will mate before the other and slight rotation might be needed just being careful of the seals. It is normally not possible for them to go back in with the box sitting level. It should all be okay though, have done it several times.

Got you! I'll try that today. Fingers crossed!

[DaveEFI]

The problem with this way is not getting it to fit, but the chances of damaging a seal.

[rich112]

Well I stood the gearbox up on end and the TC dropped in. I lubed the seal and shaft beforehand.

The TC does seem to be a little wobbly though. Is that normal?

https://youtu.be/CXG8a7JTwWA

[DaveEFI]

Yes it might move slightly since only supported one side.

I read it as you were going to replace the box, TC still on the engine. That's when seals can get damaged. Not by fitting the TC to the box, off the car, so sorry.

[Mc Tool]

Another issue is .....the outer shaft that the seal runs on with the two big notches must be fully seated in with the notches engaged . These notches drive the oil pump and its possible to engage the splined shafts but have the notches not so . This leaves the converter sticking out to far ( by the same distance as the depth of the notches ) and if you are unaware of this and use the bell housing to block bolts to pull the bell housing up to the block ( people do ) you will shatter the oil pump . Part of the problem is that whilst turning the converter to align the notches the oil pump can also turn leading one to believe the converter must be correctly seated when its not. You must not use any pressure to seat the converter , when properly aligned it will just fall into place under its own weight if the box is vertical . Personally I do it with the box lying flat . When you fit the box/conv assy to the block there should be no gap between block and bell housing, if there is ( same distance as the depth of the notches ) the conv is not fully seated......try again . Can be a bit of faffin about.