Baffled Sump....

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mike332
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Post by mike332 »

Cheers for the advice. Will fit it level then. Makes life easier that way anyhow. This may sound like a silly question, but I have no experience with hydraulic lifters (which the rule book states we must keep), will slick 50 or similar have any bad effect on the lifters? I always bang a bottle of slick 50 in my engines, just to be on the safe side, but if it's going to have a bad effect on the lifters I won't bother :?:


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The Original Tom
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Post by The Original Tom »

katanaman wrote:There is a dirty great big thing called a crank that splashes more than enough oil around to feed the cam. The lifters also deliberately leak oil onto the cam and of course whatever supplies the cam bearings comes out the side to supply the cam. So no you don't need oil in the heads to lube the cam.
Aye that's true enough, but if Mike is going to fit a crank scraper then the splash will be dramatically reduced surely? Also the oil leaking out the side of the cam bearings will be fine for the lobes directly next to each bearing, but those in the middle might not see this effect so much?

I'm not saying you're wrong, merely asking for an explanation as I'd missed those points myself

Tom.
Rover 3.5 V8 landy - Completely rebuilt and purring... Now awaiting a good tune!!
mike332
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Post by mike332 »

Hmmmm, interesting points, really don't want to get it wrong. My mate is running his engine at around 6,000 rpm by the time he gets to the end of the straights, so it probably gets to that rpm for around 3 seconds, twice per lap which is aprox 16-17 seconds. We do 16 laps in the heats and 20 in the final, so it's not reving very high for very long, then it drops to around 2,000 rpm at times on the bends.

Any help or advice greatfully recieved, as I know I can ask my fellow drivers, but it's a bit cloak and dagger when it comes to engines :lol: so you never quite know if they are giving the best tips or not :? I really want every last bit I can squeeze out of her, so saving the weight of the oil on the crank will add just a tiny little bit extra 8)
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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

Lets See

Now the turns are all one way?
So mount the engine canted over so the sump is outermost The centrifugal force will help the oil get back to the sump

Then find your cam specs and find out where your torque max is. - probably nowhere near the 6000rpm. Then redo the gearing etc to run the motor at max torque setting - this is where you will accelerate the fastest. Power wins bragging at the pub and torque will win the race.

After that look at wheels and tyre sizes and settings - if the regs allow run a higher profile tyre on the outside rim - it will help throw it around the bend (but compromise straight) and lock the diff if it's allowed.

Sounds like fun

Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
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Post by katanaman »

What about all the oil coming out the big ends getting thrown everywhere? As I said there is also oil running down the lifters which is directly on the cam lobe. Cutting the amount of oil to the top end is a well known and proven route and not just on a rover engine. Don't just trust me and the other people that have mentioned it and do some research elsewhere if you want. The only danger involved in this is if you cut too much oil your valve springs will overheat and fail. Being a race engine you will be in there all the time so will soon know if you have got it wrong.

I would advise you get a copy of Hardcastles book or the other one that I cant remember the name of. You will see this and many other tips and tricks documented in there.
mike332
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Post by mike332 »

Ian Anderson wrote:Lets See

Now the turns are all one way?
So mount the engine canted over so the sump is outermost The centrifugal force will help the oil get back to the sump

Then find your cam specs and find out where your torque max is. - probably nowhere near the 6000rpm. Then redo the gearing etc to run the motor at max torque setting - this is where you will accelerate the fastest. Power wins bragging at the pub and torque will win the race.

After that look at wheels and tyre sizes and settings - if the regs allow run a higher profile tyre on the outside rim - it will help throw it around the bend (but compromise straight) and lock the diff if it's allowed.

Sounds like fun

Ian
Yeah, all turns are left hand, and we run approx 2 inch stagger on the rolling cercumferance of the rear tyres. We also offset the rear axle, and also run a shorter wheel base on the inside, we're drifting pretty much all the way round anyway :twisted:

The engine has to be mounted upright when veiwed from the front, only longditudenal (<spelling) tilt is allowed. On reading up a bit I see the rangerover sump is slightly shallower meaning I can squeeze a few mm off the engines relative hieght and get the centre of gravity down a bit (we have to run 2 inches minimum).

Oh, and yes...... it's GREAT fun :twisted: full contact aswell :twisted:

Me in a borrowed car....

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