Fuel Filter selection

General Chat About Exhaust, Cylinder Heads, Fuel Systems And Intake

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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

Or possibly a fuel cooler / radiator on the return from the fuel rail

There is another thread about this at the moment - seems fairly cheap and sensible thing to fit

cheers
Ian


Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

A tip to save your knuckles!

When doing all the Jubilee / Hose clips in the fuel system
I bet they are never in easy access areas!

Normally they have a hex head nut and some sort of screwdriver slot or cross. Chances are the hex head is also a perfect fit for the electric screwdriver without any bit fitted (i.e. the hole where you would normally fit the bit is a fit for the jubilee clip) Saves slipping jubilee clip and skinned knuckles!

Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
racer
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Re: Fuel Filter selection

Post by racer »

Very complex.

The first diagram is a recipe for so many problems it would take too much space here to dissect them.

I tried the second system once many years ago. Doesn't add to one's life, though it can work for a while (assuming you vent the fuel tank very well) until something goes wrong. Something will go wrong faster than normal as you have increased complexity, add many more of the very connections you should limit (pressurized fuel) and will rely on two pumps rather than one.

I tossed it. I wish I had done so sooner. By that time I had burned 3 Bosch pumps.

Instead I went simplistic. Why rely on an expensive Bosch high pressure fuel pump just because it was used way back when? The world almost universally uses in-tank fuel pumps now. Cheap, reliable, and no cooling problems as they are submerged. They sit on their filter.

There is no gravity issues and you can take your fuel from the tank anywhere you wish. The top is nice because in an accident, those hoses from the tank to an exterior pump systems, dislodge, and the gravity pours your fuel all around you.

I do the plumbing in the tank with special fuel resistant hose, (regular fuel hose rots when submerged in fuel) and then I use AN fittings and Aeroquip teflon fuel line. Lasts forever and easy to deal with. I use another inline EFI filter in the feed line.

You will never have any problems (unless you let the tank run REALLY dry), you reduce complexity, you eliminate many high pressure connections, you spend much less for one easily replaceable longer lasting pump, and you make the system considerably safer and fireproof.

racer
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Eliot
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Post by Eliot »

Yes i would agree. Especially about the point about the fuel draining out. My old fuel tank used to syphon the fuel from the top of the tank to avoid that problem - but kept getting cavitation because as we know the HP pumps dont like to suck.

Unfortunately, my tank fabrication had already began before it occured to me to do an intank approach.

However, depending on the design of your tank - you cant be garanteed of no surge. Here's how the pro's do it, the inside of a WRC rally car pump setup:
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~eliotmez/liftpump1.jpg
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~eliotmez/liftpump2.jpg
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~eliotmez/liftpump3.jpg
Eliot Mansfield
5.7 Dakar 4x4, 4.6 P38 & L322 TDV8
www.mez.co.uk / www.efilive.co.uk
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