well puzzled , please help :))

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:53 pm

Hi Chris

Mines the one on the left ...but now with no vac unit
i never had it piped in anyway so ive removed it and fixed the base plate in the correct place .. now !! Lol
It now allows me to rotate the dizzy a lot further too

Cobratone · Post by **Cobratone** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:00 am

Not sure if this will be any help or not! I once had a very similar situation, after an engine re-build (the dizzy obviously had to come out) I couldn't get the engine to start until the timing was very advance, over 40 degrees. I couldn't work it out as I did everything right but as the engine warmed up it began to run rougher and rougher until I started to back the timing off, once fully warm (and to be fair, probably too hot) I managed to get the timing where I wanted it. Once it had cooled down it started fine at the correct timing. I never did find out why it wouldn't start at first unless far advanced.

richardpope50 · Post by **richardpope50** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:21 am

That's what I was saying and threw me when connecting up HT leads after swapping from SD1 to TVR engines and took me a little while to sort out timing and HT leads.

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:25 pm

Update :

Ok now ive sorted the timing issue ...my cock up !:)

It now running when it feels like it ... it ran fine on both lpg and petrol this morning ...even took it for a drive .. it runs fine , loads of power

Got back and tryed to start it and now it wont run for more than a couple of minutes ?
And thats on both gas and petrol although it sometimes lasts longer on petrol

Ive tried everything ...
ive tested the ignition module ..(brother has a proper tester)
ive tried a differant coil ,
ive rewired the sense wires from coil neg terminal to lpg switch and to petrol ecu
ive rewired and tested the lpg solinoid wiring
Ive rewired the lpg switch and even disconnected the immobiliser part of the alarm system

and still no joy ... ? Ideas welcome please

richardpope50 · Post by **richardpope50** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:33 pm

I had that on my car. Discovered the coil was next to, in my case, a swirl pot that moved when it got hot and shorted the coil. Cooled down and all OK until it ran for another few minutes. Took an long time to find that.

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:59 pm

So when it doesnt start, do you have spark or not ?

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:26 pm

It seems to start when its cold .. big fat spark from the king lead when rocking the rotor arm back and forth ....
.. and from the plug when cranking

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:15 pm

When engine cold or coil is cold ?

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:46 pm

Engine cold , im puzzled because it does it on both lpg and petrol ..but petrol seems to last longer ... makes no differance if its ticking over or reving it just dies ..just like its switched off ...

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:49 pm

So back to start

What exactly has changed from when it ran fine, until now ?

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:54 pm

Omg ...all that for faulty rotor arm ... not until i swapped it for a old spare one that it cured it all !!!
Aaagghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Thankyou for all the advice and help guys

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:44 pm

Was it a 'new' one? Lots of complaints in the SD1 club about these new 'Lucas' spares.

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 4:01 pm

Not that long since i replaced it ...
On closer inspection theres a clear crack right throught it from inside the hole ...

Its crazy how something so small can cause all the problems ..

........ Not too bad the timing chain did need changing anyway , very slack , even made grooves in the case ..