The V8 Owners Forum -

I was originally advised by RPI Enginering (who supplied my short engine) to run a good quality 20/50 mineral oil in my 4.6, but change it every 3,000 miles as the main problem with the RV8 is that it's quite a dirty engine.

I think it's generally accepted that synthetics are better quality oils ...

Guess the other thing is to make sure that they're seated flush against the hub / disk bell.

If you're using a fuse, make sure it's quite a bit bigger than the steady current load. I fitted a Pacet Pro which stated (I think!) about 12 amp steady load, but needed a 30 amp fuse to take the start up load!

The RV8 pump is not designed to self prime. If you're lucky, maybe it will but there's no guarantee & it ain't worth the risk of a blown engine.

Seems like different peopple have found different ways to make it work & I don't think it matters what method you use as long as you make sure it's primed ...

What would worry me is that you mention that the sound is maintained for a few seconds after the pedal is released. That should mean that it's nothing to do with the pads or disks because the pads should release as soon as pressure is removed from the pedal.

Could you have a problem with the brake ...

Or if you want to go the whole hog you can fit 15 inch wheels, 300mm vented disks & 4 pot calipers from the likes of AP Racing or Hi-Spec. You can go bigger than that, but I reckon bigger wheels than 15's don't look so good on a TR7 & the ride will get too hard.

Don't expect much change from GBP1 ...

Finally had the 4.6 dyno'd & tweaked yesterday with the Holley 600. It just needed a minor jet change & timing adjustment.

Horses at the rear wheels are up to 190 (best run 193) compared to 186 with the Edelbrock. They're made at the same rpm (approx 5,400), but it hangs on within a gnats whisker ...

Just to pick up on Minorv8's comments, I had thought about the possibility of crap in the carb, but I would expect that this would cause it to run lean, not rich as it would block fuel flow. I can pretty much guarantee that the rods are a pair as the guys tried several pairs so it's pretty unlikely ...

Well that's interesting... especially as I'm in the same position with my 4.6.

After endless problems with carburetion on my Edelbrock 500 (see my other thread), the tuning shop ripped it off & tried a Holley 600 double pumper. Out of the box it's been way better than the Edelbrock in the way that ...

First off, if it needs a lot of choke to run it's lean, not rich.

Second, I think you can get tune up kits for these carbs which contain a selection of springs etc.

Third, as far as I know, all carbs run the same kind of vaccuum advance for the dizzy & it always varies with load. Someone may ...

4 psi is probably a bit low, but these carbs need volume flow more than pressure so I guess it depends if the pump can maintain sufficient volume flow. Can you put a pressure guage on it, or get someone else to check it for you?

I have a Holley Red on my 4.6. It's supposedly factory pre-set at 7 ...

You're not looking for "marks" on the end of the shaft. I think what we're talking about here are the oil feed holes in the shaft.

Got to say that mine's quite noisy, although you can't hear it over the engine. Can't hear much else either...

Thanks for the replies!

My manifold has a dividing wall running lengthways, effectively dividing it in two, each bank being fed by one half of the carb - unless there's some other fancy pipework that I can't see...

The accelerator pump is on the middle hole, but this shouldn't affect the mixture ...

Thanks for the help. I'll get the manifold faces machined to fit.

I can see the point on skimming the inlet faces on the head, but there's a lot of work involved in removing heads & I'd be concerned about getting the gaskets to fit properly.

Manifolds aren't that expensive, so I'll risk that ...