The V8 Owners Forum -

Eliot wrote:when you remove the cap when the car is stone cold - does any air/pressure escape?

if so, hg or block is likely cause i'm afraid.

No, no pressure in the system after a few hours

After a recent possible overheat (hose blew off, warning light came on and I pulled over) my car is using coolant. 20 miles drops the level of the tank about a inch.

I have a kit car with a Rover 3.9l V8. I bought the short block off a guy from eBay as a 'new' reconditioned block that V8 ...

Driving along in my 3.9l RV8 kit car at the weekend one of the heater matrix takeoff hoses burst off the front cover. I assume the resultant pressure pumped the water from the system. I have a emergency coolant light which came on (admittedly I didn't see it come on) and I looked down at the temp ...

I took 2 years between packing the vaseline and priming the oil system. No issues!!!

All, Sidecar,

Thank you for your patient advice regarding this. I completely understand that you can't suggest a rod jet combo that will suit my engine without testing the engine yourself. I think the only way forward is for me to try and get myself a wideband sensing kit. Something like a LC1 ...

What do you mean by a 'one off rod'?

64x54 is not on the edelbrock chart of rod and jets. Where do these come from? The 3.9 rod/jet combo seems quite a lot leaner than stock. If the carb runs the rv8 that rich it makes a mockery of what RPI says about the carb. They claim it runs perfectly out of ...

I have had another look at the rods and jets

The Rods are 65-52

The Jets are more diffcult

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/gallery/Screen%20Shot%202015-10-02%20at%2013.35.36.jpg

The main jets have .386 written on them. The secondaries are completely unreadable. But they are bigger so I must ...

Took the carb apart last night and it was way easier than I thought. I watched a couple of videos on the net and it seemed to go okay.

1. I think the float heights are way out. By at least 3 or 4mm. I don't have a handy 7/16 drill bit but they are still out. Am I right in thinking I just bend the ...

I am using a facet redtop pump which should be okay.

I think i am confident enough to take the carb apart now. I have watched all the tutorial videos on the Web. Would it benefit me to buy the edelbrock carb kit which is quite expensive or just buy the relevant jets etc one size leaner? If so ...

3.9 Brand New Engine with refurbed heads (however refurbed by me). Webber 500 carb that was bought used from a known good source which has come off a 3.5 v8. Megajolt

Just bought a compression tester and it will be here in a couple of days. It also just went through a IVA test where they test the emissions and it past the tests dead easy. In fact it walked through the tests being nowhere near the required minimums.

Coops wrote:have you tried doing a compression test yet?

No because mostly I don't have one. I should probably buy one and the problem is not limited to one cylinder only. It seems to be an issue with all cylinders.

Got my RV8 running now and it has issues. I think it's either running rich or somehow oiling up the spark plugs. Once the car is running it seems to be fine. However if left over a period of time, say a couple of weeks the plugs are black and wet. It struggles to start and one or more cylinders don ...

I will eventually go to EFI. With carbs, fuel goes in, air goes in, some magic non-logical things happen and the engine goes! This is how it seems to me. For my older brother though - he loves them. But he's 20 years older than me and has been a mechanic/tinkerer all his life.

There are good tuning videos on the Edlebrock Website that show you how to change the rods and jets but not what rods/jets to put in. As said apparently the best way is with a wideband Lambda sensors but I have not been able to find a standalone kit for cheap money.

I put a post up about this and I ...