The V8 Owners Forum -

Firstly thanks to marki for bearing with me, I have all sorts of problems trying to load these pics,

Now to the subject, I have finally got around to making the master for making my new cast ally sump, I am at the moment unsure where to split it so it can be cast in sand, I am wondering if I can get away with right down the centre line or will have to split it into 3 bits, probably easier to take it up the foundry on monday and ask which is the best way, but I want to get on with it, any suggestions??
Ian

No advice wot so ever but i'll post the link so u can have a nose at wot i found, john
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html

Ian,
Stupid question time, can they not cast in 2 bits, or is it a mechanical impossibility? (winged sump + engine side?)
Is this the place across from Tesco's still?
Cheers
Iain

Ian,

'nother dumb question. Why not fabricate?

Cheers,

(did you know we've got another Ian?) Ian.

Iain B yes its going to the foundry opposite to Tescos, and it will need to be made in two sand boxes, its the place to split the buck I am unsure about,
Ian, I suppose i could fab in 4mm half hard, but its the welding thats the ptoblem, or more like the expense, them sorting out the distortion of the flanges, its a lot of flange to keep true and then the normal leaking that occours, so sump off and try to get it rewelded, never an easy task when oil has been involved, etc etc, and yes I did notice another Ian, in fact i think I replied to his post

Been busy today, had a word at the foundry for a as cast price with runners and risers removed, and shot blasted, about £130, then I popped over to the local fab shop, Lots of sucking of teeth, Ahhhhs Ummms, things like grain direction, folding tollerences and all sorts of other things, @ £55ph probably take the best part of a day to make, "Say £500 cash, how does that sound" sounds like I could buy a second hand 3 phase TIG and do it myself with some change left over, I seem to remember the street light outside my garage has a 3 phase feed in the bottom, on second thoughts is going to be cast and with a few cooling fins for good measure.

Hi Ian
when you made the pattern for the sump presumably you had to make it "a bit bigger" to allow for the shrinkage of the metal when it cools..... by about how much?
Just at some stage I will be looking at the whole business of the inlets for the chevy and If they will do somthing as complex as that sum for £130 it has got me thinking!!!
Best regards
Mike

shrinkage is 1.6% at 650degs

I thought you made the runners and risers large enough so they cooled last and fed the main casting so shrinkage didn't happen?

shrinkage is 1.6% at 650degs

Should be not much shrinkage then. I can't imagine the block will get the sump up to 650 degrees by conductance

'Average' oil temperature is 90-110 degrees and it starts to coke (i.e. fail) at 220-250 degrees C so sounds like it should do the job well

Lewis wrote:

shrinkage is 1.6% at 650degs

Should be not much shrinkage then. I can't imagine the block will get the sump up to 650 degrees by conductance

'Average' oil temperature is 90-110 degrees and it starts to coke (i.e. fail) at 220-250 degrees C so sounds like it should do the job well

I think you got the wrong end of the stick there.
Metal normaly shrinks when it is cooling down, not when it is heated up.
Casting process as a clue?

Ahaha.......sorry, long day.

I was thinking about in.....Yes, quite, total wires crossed and shorted moment

Does this have any internal baffling or anything? Trapdoors?

£130 seems like a very good price though! For comparison I bought and restored/painted a genuine Group A big wing baffled/trapdoored (4 of) sump for £230 IIRC, so certainly a big saving with yours

Ian, this sump wouldn't be extra stiff so as to act as a stressed member would it? Kinda external girdle type thing like the LS1 vet winged sump.