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RV8 Oil Change Procedure - Question 2

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:01 am
by IanT
Q2:
I know you all recommend 20w50 - Valvoline or Duckhams.
I heard a rumour that the 'Classic' Oil that Halfords sell in gallon tins is actually Duckhams. Anybody know?



Q1: This is going to sound pretty basic.. but.. do you take any special precautions for an oil change on a Rover V8?

I'm just wondering about lifters draining, or oil pump unpriming itself..

Hints or tips?

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:36 am
by Eliot
Drain the oil as normal.
But fill your new filter up with oil BEFORE removing the old one, then quickly swap them over.

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:00 pm
by JSF55
I've left mine drain down overnight and not had a problem with the pump emptying, i think it's more to do with getting an empty pump to prime from new, always fill the filter if u can saves any air running round the bearings and lifters, john

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 6:54 pm
by landybob_v8
i always drop the sump and let it drain empty then do the filter and re fill the oil

i was always taught the 20 minuite rule for full drain filter swap and refill

apartently anything after 20 mins its starts draining from the pump

but if you change the filter while you still have sump oil, and top up the filter fully before fitting it (fill until no bubbles come out from the filter) then refit and then drain and refill the sump you wont have any problems

if you do loose oil pressure shouldnt be any problem whipping under to grab off the pump base and repack it but i cant see it happening

Oil change.

Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:21 am
by Stephen Leckie
As above, drain sump, refill sump. Then unscrew filter, fill with oil, attach. If you drain the sump, then unscrew the filter, then you run the risk of syphoning the pump dry - especially if it is a bit worn. Pain in the backside when a ten minute job becomes a two hour job, and you know that there is vaseline inside your engine. I have 5 V8' Landies, same oil, mineral 15/40. Same stuff goes in diesel Landies. Buy it by the 25 litre can. Most motor factors, or garages.

PS Landybob, great site. How do you start such a site?

Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:30 pm
by landybob_v8
its on the garage option at the top of the page

Re: Oil change.

Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:14 pm
by Coops
Stephen Leckie wrote:
PS Landybob, great site. How do you start such a site?
which site is this then Rob (landy bob)

Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:25 pm
by IanT
Thanks guys, a few good tips to keep a simple job .. simple!

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:25 pm
by scoobyv8
and if all fails, i seen a neat tool on fleabay lastnight. you remove the dizzy and fit this drive rod into its place and turn it with a drill. allowing the oil presure to build up before the engine turns. and it was only a few quid too. might have one for the toolbox i think

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:03 pm
by landybob_v8
think he is on about the garage page on this forum tone ive got a link on my avatar there

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:33 pm
by katanaman
scoobyv8 wrote:and if all fails, i seen a neat tool on fleabay lastnight. you remove the dizzy and fit this drive rod into its place and turn it with a drill. allowing the oil presure to build up before the engine turns. and it was only a few quid too. might have one for the toolbox i think
Always worth having a priming stick just make sure you get the right one, Rimmer Bros sell them too.

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:53 pm
by Coops
made both of mine at work (for sd1 and early pump)

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:18 pm
by landybob_v8
i bought that one off ebay last night

:D

can scrap my super bodge old dizzy with the drive cog ground down and hammered in drill rod where the rotor arm sits

it does work well but wont fit in a tool box!

Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:03 am
by katanaman
sounds like a good excuse to get a bigger tool box to me :lol: a man can never have too big a tool box.

Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 4:37 pm
by landybob_v8
it arrived today

it wont fit my drill!

its too fat

2 options

1 buy a bigger drill
2 get it on a lathe