The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi again,
when using this HyFire VI together with a ProMaster Coil ( 29440 ) and a Unilite dizzy, do I need a ballast-resistor?
I´m studying all the delivered diagrams and connectionshemes, but I´m not sure what to do!

The hyfire unit controls the system.

There is no need for the ballast resistor as the hyfire unit controls the whole game.

The power is taken from the large red wire from the vehicles battery and the large black wire is to chassis earth or the battery negative.

The thin red wire needs to be connected to a circuit that lets it know that the ignition is turned on and therefor it tells the hyfire unit to become active and draw power plus wait for pulses from the unilite.

Some diagrams leave the ballast (Mallory part 700) in the diagrams with the hyfire as if the hyfire dies then you WILL need a ballast to prevent damage to the pickup module.

Remember that only when a ballast is actually drawing curent will it generate resistance.

If the hyfire dies then there is redundancy in the system to get you to your destination by using the ballast wiring diagrams.

I am currently forming an electrical diagram for the hyfire VI A, promaster coil, OEM coil, EZ trigger and a 57 series magnetic Mallory dizzy but the wiring will be identicle.

Remember - the brown wire from the dizzy goes to ENGINE earth and not chassis ground unless it is from a bridging strap.

hth.

Doc

Many thanx doc,
I messured the V on the wires as I lengthened them.
I messured at the factory length and at my soldered length.
The same readings. I also messured the ohms of the cable.
0.03 . I think that´s ok.

Fine and well. But remember that Mallory specifically make it clear that if you are lengthening the cables then you should uprate their capacity to the next size up.

I suppose it is not just what it is now but under load when working hard.

Just make sure you play by their rules or any warranty might be invalidated. Also - watch out for the old insurance companies. Should anything go pop and fizzle with that nasty orange and yellow glow with the sadistic hint of black plumes of unwanted nastiness then they might consider the wiring incorrectly fitted and contributory to any failure.

I have seen cases where the vehicle has been "modified" and the insurer not allowing payout !

hth

desertrover wrote:Many thanx doc,
I messured the V on the wires as I lengthened them.
I messured at the factory length and at my soldered length.
The same readings. I also messured the ohms of the cable.
0.03 . I think that´s ok.

Not saying your going to have problems with what your doing (I would doubt it) but what you could run into is volts drop under load with the longer cables. You cant detect this off load as its when the load goes on the voltage drops. I guess in extreme cases you could melt something but I would doubt that. A 10A bit of cable will take 10A whether its an inch or a mile long its the voltage that suffers.

Hi there,
I used thicker cables.
I didn´t want to place the unit under the bonnet, because it´s a offroader an so it could get wet.
As I bought the unit "used" from rossco ( here in the forum ) 2 years ago, ( no time to change the running system ) and don´t know if he shortened the leads, what´s the factory length of the leads/cables?
Many thanx.
stephan