The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi guys, Im new to this great site, but have used it many times for great info.
Im rebuilding RV8 for a widebody MGB Sebring. I have stipped an SD1 and P6 engines. Both look to have similar wear. I have measured the bores and crank and they are just about on workshop manual limits.
I want this to be a fast road engine and have some ideas, but am concerned about the need (and cost) of machine work. Both engines were running ok and If I hadnt stripped them for uprating, probably lasted for many more years. Crank journals look in very good nick but close to limits?
Eng spec - SD1 block, 10.1:1 pistons- new rings/glasebusted, compsite Hgaskets, SD1 flowed heads, weber500 + inlet, probably Hurr cam,
Any help please. Note... running short on cash??
Cheers Brian

Hello Brian,

Bottom ends are typically quite long lasting, say 200,000 miles plus.

A full top end overhaul is usually on the cards by 100,000 miles.

Oil 20W-50 and filter should be changed often, say every 3000 miles maximum. The Rover V8 loves regular oil changes.

The Rover V8 is not a cheap engine to rebuild, so if funds are a problem, make it a long term project.

If your SD1 block was made after 1980, then it will be a stronger block than that used for the P6.

Best of luck,
Ron.

Problem with tuning any engine is that it needs to be in good nick to start with.

Your bores being on the limit is not a very good start!

The RV8 costs a few quid to get into a state that is good enough for tuning to start with.

The valve train is prone to wear, especially if the engine has not been well looked after. Cam, followers, rockers and rocker shafts are all prone to wear. The cam can be replaced with something more racy as part of the tune up but budget for the other stuff being knackered too. (You must fit new followers with the new cam).

The standard timing chain and gears are also pretty crap!

Personally I'd go for standard followers (lifters) but be aware that there are some genuine Rover ones around that are duff. (They were not machined correctly and the cup bit flips over). RPI have the good ones in stock. The shim method of getting the pre-load right is a bit of a bodge in my opinion to, you should go for adjustable pushrods. (Realsteel, 120 quid!) Then set the preload to 20 thou.

HT Howard of Slough have done a lot of machining work on a 4.6 lump that I've just built (3.5 stage III heads). The workmanship was good but not cheap!

They skimmed the heads 32 thou, (40 had already been taken off) 10:1 now.

They shortened the adjustable pushrods by 4mm

They removed 1.5mm from the rockershaft pedestal bosses in the heads

They skimmed 32 thou on the edelbrock manifold, (each face)

They also did a couple of other bits and bobs, there was no change from 400 quid!

HTH,

Pete