Page 1 of 1

Problem with Chevrolet 350

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:02 pm
by Langostinoanus
Hi. I'm Hernan ,form Argentina where V8's are not so common. I have a friend who changed his 6-in-line Chevrolet 250 for the mighty 350. Almost everything is new. He bought mostly everything from Summit.

The problem... its starts good, runs good but when it gets 3500 RPM the engine literally dies... We tried almost everything.

Did any of you have the same problem?

Thanks.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:08 pm
by leepop633
I havent got a 350 chevy engine, yet, but sounds like if it just dies sounds like its being starved of fuel. What exactly have you tried?

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:27 pm
by CastleMGBV8
Yes it could well be fuel starvation, is it carburettor fed, what fuel pump do you have and what pressure are you running it at, you want about 5.5 PSI for a Holley or Edelbrock.

It could also be ignition, does the car have an electronic rev counter, if so drive the car and as it cuts out watch the rev counter, if the needle goes to zero then it's the low tension side of the coil and you probably need to replace the coil, but do make sure you get one that is matched to your ignition system and distributor.

Kevin.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:28 pm
by Langostinoanus
The 1st thing we tried was switching carburator.
We tried 3 differents carbs.
We gave the engine more fuel.
We disconnect the meter (It used to work fine with the 6-in-line engine. we didn't about the V8). 'cause the failure sounds like when you set the meter to x RPM and you reach that limit.
We check the valves...

Tonight we are going to switch the distributor.

As you may have noticed, i do speak english but i don't know many mechanical terms.

Thanks!

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 8:17 pm
by katanaman
This might sound stupid but your rev counter is reading accurately? I only ask because its a conversion.

Welcome by the way :D

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:07 am
by Ian Anderson
Check the earthing connection to the engine.
Check the wiring to the distributor
check the wiring from the alternator

Does anything pull tight when the engine is revved / does the engine move on the mounts? if it is it may be a broken wire inside the insulation of one of the wires going to / from the engine

Easy enough to run an extra wire on each when testing to isolate the problem wire. (Piece of wire (heavy duty) and a pair of crocodile clips. Battery jump leads from negative of battery to the engine as a backup earth.


Is it on points in the distributor - if so check the gap and change the condensor.

Ian