The V8 Owners Forum -

a chap was tryign to sell me a V8 range rover, however he did say the only rpoblem he has found is the oil light flickers when its hot, he said changing the oil pump would probly sort it,

but i do remember readign somewhere that this was a known problem an had a simple fix? not sure if it was on this site or on another,

anyone have any idea?

guess worst case is the bottom end is nakerd an its letting to much oil through!



Ralph

worse case its knackered but there are a few other possibilities. Idle too low, wrong oil, bad pump, bad pressure switch. What was the mileage?

Ralphh85 wrote:a chap was tryign to sell me a V8 range rover, however he did say the only rpoblem he has found is the oil light flickers when its hot, he said changing the oil pump would probly sort it,

but i do remember readign somewhere that this was a known problem an had a simple fix? not sure if it was on this site or on another,

anyone have any idea?

guess worst case is the bottom end is nakerd an its letting to much oil through!



Ralph

If an oil pump would sort it then why hasn't he fitted one and therefore sorted it? (Rather than just making up an excuse).

Seing as oil is the "life-blood" of an engine I would be very wary of buying a car that was giving you a warning that there is a problem in this area.

It may well be something simple like a duff switch or wrong grade of oil but unless he's selling it for peanuts I'd walk away! Just my opinion, but they're far too many people trying to rip off other people in this world!

Pete

could even be the wrong grade of oil
should br 20w50

Ian

Changing the oil pump involves changing the front cover, and a new (i.e. known good) front cover isn't cheap.

Chris.

do you mean the bit i would have to change to fit the remote pick up cover? i think the one you have chris??

he was selling it quite cheap, £350 for the range rover, and said he was not breaking it himself because does not have time.

either way sounds bad dont think i will buy it,

its on 144k miles i think.



Ralph

Ralphh85 wrote:do you mean the bit i would have to change to fit the remote pick up cover? i think the one you have chris??

You don't need to change the main front cover to fit a remote filter, only the pump cover.

However, to renew the oil pump completely, you need a whole new front timing chain cover, which is expensive. You can just change the gears, but if the gears are worn, then the pump body (part of the timing chain cover) will be worn also.

It could be a simple fix such as oil change, pressure relief valve etc, but it could just as easily be a scrap engine. I wouldn't take the risk myself.

Jeff

A RR with 144k on the clock needs a rebuild within the next 20K (actually needs a top end/valve train rebuild long ago) so why add a new pump to an old engine? Bite the bullet and do it properly. If it has had all its oil changes you may just need to hone the bores and re ring. 350 for a whole RR is cheep and it is worth alot more if you break it.
Mike

i would be breaking it as i donly want the engine!

however thanks for the advice and im NOT goign to buy it because i currently want a good ish engine which i can fit in and get the convertion done, and will give me idealy a years trouble free motoring,

THEN i will buy another maybe nakerd engine and rebuild it, but i dotn wanna be doing a convertion and a rebuild to an engine i dont know much about yet.


cheers
Ralph

Ian Anderson wrote:could even be the wrong grade of oil
should br 20w50

Ian

Oil technology has moved on a LONG way in the last 60 years...

JC. wrote:

Ian Anderson wrote:could even be the wrong grade of oil
should br 20w50

Ian

Oil technology has moved on a LONG way in the last 60 years...

Yeah but the RV8 hasn't!

Thats why it still needs an older type of oil.

Also a lot of the modern oils don't have enough zinc phosphate in them to keep flat lifters happy, espeically when the spring pressures are quite high due to the heavy design of the valve train.

Even with the right oil the RV8 is pretty tough on its camshaft.

Thats why I use Valvoline VR1 20-50 in my lump.

Pete

im off to have a further look at this engine tongiht, and more importantly lookt hrough the service history, cause its supposedly been very well serviced, and im gonna look to see if it has had heads rebuilt or anything like that.

the chap said his beetle (with RR running gear) has had a flickering oil light (on tock over when hot) ever since hes had it and never caused any problems, an tbh this engine is only one i wanna use for the conversion, and then to use for a bit once its served it purpose it will either get scrapped and be replaced with one which il build (probly 3.9) or i will rebuild this one.

but i dont want to get lugged with a fucked engine straight after i spend money converting to V8 power.



Ralph

Ralphh85 wrote:im off to have a further look at this engine tongiht, and more importantly lookt hrough the service history, cause its supposedly been very well serviced, and im gonna look to see if it has had heads rebuilt or anything like that.

the chap said his beetle (with RR running gear) has had a flickering oil light (on tock over when hot) ever since hes had it and never caused any problems, an tbh this engine is only one i wanna use for the conversion, and then to use for a bit once its served it purpose it will either get scrapped and be replaced with one which il build (probly 3.9) or i will rebuild this one.

but i dont want to get lugged with a fucked engine straight after i spend money converting to V8 power.



Ralph

No matter how well its been looked after with 144k on the clock it's going to need a new cam and followers, new rockershafts and rockers.

I'm not saying that its not worth buying or at least looking at but you should factor the above into the price.

Pete

just seen it again,

yep i think your definatly right, tho i expect it would still carry on for 10-20k with out any major problems?

its running on all 8 by the sounds of it and is suposed to pull well etc,

that chap is a landrover dealer and have known him years, an he swears that a flickering oil light aint a major problem, im sure he wouldnt rip me off knowingly but this doesnt mean it does have problems he doesn't know about.

said he would give me £50 back if i gave himt he Autobox, so that would make it £300,

gonna think about it trouble is i donno how much these things are worth as never bought a landrover before!


Ralph

It all depends on spec year and condition, Gearbox of that age £50 to £75, steering box £50 to £65, axels, £50 to £75 each rear hatch upper half (not rotten right through) about £120 lower not rotted to bits 35 to 50, leather interior with seats and carpets in clean servicable condition (ie not left wet and does not smell like a rotting sheep ) £250 to £350 cloth not worn through £150 to £250, drive shafts £40 to £50, petrol tank £35, transfer box (chain with the viscous diff still working) £75 to £100) doors £25, bonnet £40, wheels £15 to £25 each for alloys rad £50 alternator £35. chassis with log book £250 to £400 If you are prepared to strip it clean it up and put it on Ebay you will get £800 to £1500 for a Range Rover in bits depending on condition and how good you are with the fairy power spray and jet washer everything can be sold off one!
Mike