The V8 Owners Forum -

hi all, just some advice on the edelbrock 500, im fitting one to my sd1 , will it be ok ish out the box, some details on the engine , 9;75 pistons, ported heads ,large valves, short valve guides, free flowing exhaust and tublar manifolds ,typhoon cam, just to need to know if the jets in it will be ok, thanks for any advice, rich

It'll probably be OK out of the box. It'll certainly run, and be a good starting point.

Most people reckon they are a bit rich straight from the box, but your engine specs are similar to mine (apart from the big valves), and I actually had to go one stage richer from stock to get it right.

Jeff

bones wrote:hi all, just some advice on the edelbrock 500, im fitting one to my sd1 , will it be ok ish out the box, some details on the engine , 9;75 pistons, ported heads ,large valves, short valve guides, free flowing exhaust and tublar manifolds ,typhoon cam, just to need to know if the jets in it will be ok, thanks for any advice, rich

It will run and it will seem to be fine but it will over fuel your engine.

Certainly "slap" it on to fire the thing up but don't do many miles with it running the out of the box settings.

The good news for you is that my motor is virtually the same spec as yours! Stage III heads, big valves, typhoon cam, tube headers, etc.

(I've done a shed load to the standard ignition, this has helped with the loss of bottom end that you start to suffer with the typhoon).

I bet your running a performer inlet manifold!

When I get home I'll dig out my paper work for the carb settings that I run. I'm pretty sure that after a load of fiddling I ended up with all standard stuff apart from the needles.

By the way it is really worth getting a heat insulator to sit under the carb, it will be a pig to start when hot otherwise!

Pete

[quote="sidecar"]
By the way it is really worth getting a heat insulator to sit under the carb, it will be a pig to start when hot otherwise!
Pete[/quote]

Yeah, I could do with a heat insulator on mine, but I have insufficient bonnet clearance!

I wouldn't say it's a pig to start when hot, but it does take a few seconds of cranking.

Jeff

Here's my setup, I'm not saying that it will be spot on but it will be better than out of the box.

86 main jet (standard)
94 secondaries (standard)
Orange needle spring (standard)
Needles 67x55 (part number 1463)
Air screws 2+ 1/4 to 2+1/2 (2+1/4 at the moment!)
Accelerator pump arm on the middle hole.

You can get needles from John Woolfe racing for 12 quid a set.

sales 01234 220 700.

You can buy a complete calibration kit for 45 quid from Realsteel



Pete

I used a carb spacer which seemed to increase the low-end torque. I made it myself and it had 4 holes in it - rather than the "open" square ones.

That - plus recirculating your fuel (if you can) help with hot restarts.

thanks for replies all, at the moment its got a 390 holly on it ,but i dont like it, and ive already got the spacer on it plus the nos plate, so its up pretty high, ignition is a mallory magnetic dizzy and the highfire with a c4 coil, another ?? , it used to run on the cheap 4* ,and ive had unleaded seats fitted, do i need to change the timing or anything, and thanks sidecar for the jetting info, thanks again all rich

I think it will be fine out the box, mine was.

Contrary to popular belief, the 500cfm is not too big for a 3.5 in my humble opinion. The reason being, the primaries are smaller than the secondaries, suitable for the smaller engine, and the secondaries have an air valve so will only draw as much as it wants to.

I think I went a stage leaner on the cruise, same as the box on the primary power, and one richer on the secondaries and run's fine.

One thing I did find was that you need a good ignition system or the plugs will get sooty. I ran for ages with the car running like shite and black plugs. I mistakenly thought it was rich, but no amount of adjustment improved it. Going leaner made it worse! A set of magnecor leads soon fixed that though, on the advice of RPI ( I already had the mallory dizzy and coil, but crappy leads) and runs fine, with the plugs a nice colour.

thanks for the replies, well i picked all the parts up today ,so looks like im going to be busy, looks like i will race something this year, thanks again, SORRY another ??? on behalf of my brother, he got a 360 mopar going into a rover sd1 , does he need to use a x-pipe and can it be 3" pipe, or would 2 1/2" be better, rich

X-pipe is a good thing, but not esental you get more out of it the higher the state of tune, you can also use a ballance pipe across the car just after the collectors needs to be about 3/4 of the area of the exhaust pipe.
Exhaust diamiter depends again on state of tune, up to about 300-320 bhp 2.5" should be OK if the silencersare free-flowing 3 inch above this.
Best regards
Mike

hi mike, my brothers engine is 420bhp with 125 of nos, its going to be in american car world soon about the build up, so a 3" would be ok then i suppose, shame realy because hes already got a 2 1/2" one, rich

I'm pretty sure he'll need a 3 inch system. I would also make sure all the silencers are straight through.
sounds a nice engine.
Mike

hes been looking at the edelbrock ones, the engines does look nice ,we went down and to see it being dyno,d , when it comes back i will put some pics up of it, thanks for the reply, rich

well i havent fitted it on the engine yet, but i fitted the new air filter on it ,and i think im going to have to cut a bigger hole in the bonnet, rich