Rover V8 Strange Problem
Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:11 pm
Hi
I recently stroked out my Range Rover 4.0 V8 to a 4.6. At the same time I had a top hat lining job done. The veichle is a 2000 P38.
The engine has done nearly a 1000 miles since the rebuild. During the first 500 miles (pre oil change) there was no problem and the fluid levels sorted themselves out over the first 50 miles or so. Over the last 250-300 miles I noticed that the expansion tank needed toping up. The first time it needed approx 3/4 litre fluid to get the level back to level (probably 200 miles since last topped up...).
I had a good look around but couldn't see any leaks anywhere. I kept an eye on the level and it needed another 1/4 - 1/3 litre after another 50 or so miles driving. Feeling something was wrong I had a look at the filler cap and there was the mayo type substance in the cap and showing in the rocker cover.
I stripped both rocker covers off and there was a moderate layer of the mayo on top of the baffle plate and running down the sides of the left hand side rocker cover. (one with the breather pipe that connects to the Bosch plenum. There was nothing but clean oil on the right hand side rocker cover (breather pipe to throttle body....)
I dropped the oil but I couldn't see any traces of coolant in it. I then removed the left hand side head but everything looked normal with an even build up of deposits and no signs of steam cleaning.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment as if one of the sleeves was leaking into the sump surley there would be traces of coolant floating on the oil. Also why is there just a build up of the mayo on the left hand rocker which leads me to think that the problem is down to that bank. Surely if the problem was a leaking liner the mayo would be evident on both sides?
At present I'm thinking of getting the heads pressure tested and if that shows all to be OK then the block will have to come out and I'll look at getting that pressure tested.
One thing I did notice was that the ARP studs/nuts I rebuilt the engine with seemed a lot easier to undo than the stretch bolts used in the original build. I torqued them all up to 75lb. Maybe it's just me and the fact they didn't undo with a crack like the stretch bolts.......
I really don't fancy having to remove/refit the whole engine again unless I'm sure so your thoughts/experiences would be much appreciated.
I recently stroked out my Range Rover 4.0 V8 to a 4.6. At the same time I had a top hat lining job done. The veichle is a 2000 P38.
The engine has done nearly a 1000 miles since the rebuild. During the first 500 miles (pre oil change) there was no problem and the fluid levels sorted themselves out over the first 50 miles or so. Over the last 250-300 miles I noticed that the expansion tank needed toping up. The first time it needed approx 3/4 litre fluid to get the level back to level (probably 200 miles since last topped up...).
I had a good look around but couldn't see any leaks anywhere. I kept an eye on the level and it needed another 1/4 - 1/3 litre after another 50 or so miles driving. Feeling something was wrong I had a look at the filler cap and there was the mayo type substance in the cap and showing in the rocker cover.
I stripped both rocker covers off and there was a moderate layer of the mayo on top of the baffle plate and running down the sides of the left hand side rocker cover. (one with the breather pipe that connects to the Bosch plenum. There was nothing but clean oil on the right hand side rocker cover (breather pipe to throttle body....)
I dropped the oil but I couldn't see any traces of coolant in it. I then removed the left hand side head but everything looked normal with an even build up of deposits and no signs of steam cleaning.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment as if one of the sleeves was leaking into the sump surley there would be traces of coolant floating on the oil. Also why is there just a build up of the mayo on the left hand rocker which leads me to think that the problem is down to that bank. Surely if the problem was a leaking liner the mayo would be evident on both sides?
At present I'm thinking of getting the heads pressure tested and if that shows all to be OK then the block will have to come out and I'll look at getting that pressure tested.
One thing I did notice was that the ARP studs/nuts I rebuilt the engine with seemed a lot easier to undo than the stretch bolts used in the original build. I torqued them all up to 75lb. Maybe it's just me and the fact they didn't undo with a crack like the stretch bolts.......
I really don't fancy having to remove/refit the whole engine again unless I'm sure so your thoughts/experiences would be much appreciated.