The V8 Owners Forum -

Easiest would be to elongate the 2 holes and refit it so the cable has a straight pull to the point where the lever attaches to the cable end fitting. This is also important in the sense where you are looking "down the cable" ie, that it does not have a bend towards the lever as it passes over the bellhousing.

Do you have any pics to send me on the right track as I'm not really any good at modifying stuff, what release bearing do you use, do you have a pic of that as well please, cheers

mantav8rally wrote:Hi, thanks for your reply,so the setup I have is nothing unusual which is a good start, please could you point me in the right direction on how to get a better pull line, if the arm has bent that would maybe explain why it worked before ( even tho a little noisy) and now it has the problem even with a full new clutch, is your arm the same, what bearing do you use? Thanx dave

I don't think the arm has bent, it just looks like the cable mount was positioned out of line when it was first installed. As "unnstable load" said you need to adjust the cable mount by slotting the holes so that cable pulls in a straight line and not kinked as indicated by your photo. Or you remake the bracked so it's in the correct line,

Sorry I don't have any photos of the previous project but the arm was a Sierra Cosworth item complete with release bearing and a 10.5" Mcleod clutch was used. The arm was modified at the far end in the bellhousing at the pivot point.

Regards Denis

Thanks, just wondering on the clutch you use are the fingers curved as mine are flat, I see what you mean now, maybe my bracket has maybe some how moved, I will try and modify it before doing anything drastic like removing all the gearbox haha, how was your arm modified inside as mine didn't seem too steady when I was refitting the box

This is the old clutch housing I used

Based on the photo of the clutch you have removed, the wear patterns do not appear to be normal. It's possible that the cable movement is too much and the diaphragm fingers are being pushed over flat and the release bearing is running on the fingers too far from the tips. It also looks like the release bearing could be partially seizing. It's not ideal that you are using a flat type release bearing but it should work ok as I have found on other projects. If you had a round faced bearing then the wear would be more local to the tips of the fingers.

Initially you need to get the cable pulling in a line which is parallel to the gearbox shaft. Otherwise the release bearing is trying to twist as well as moving forward albeit that it is sliding on the gearbox collar.
You then need to install a stop at the clutch pedal to limit movement to the point where the clutch just clears. Any further movement could damage the diaphragm.
It also appears from the photo that the release arm is angled forwards even before the pedal is pressed. This is not ideal and it should be angled slightly towards the gearbox. To correct this the pivot point for the arm inside the bellhousing would need to be extended forwards.

Regards Denis

Thanx for your help, the release bearing seemed ok when I span it, is there a way of telling it's starting to sieze? Also when I bought the car It came with some spares and bits and bobs, there was a used release bearing in with all the bits and when I found it it was knackered, it wouldn't spin and had colapsed on one side, ie the metal face was pushed into the plastic housing so spinning like the walzars!! I wonder if that is what had happened to it whilst fitted in the car and they just rePlaced it without sorting the problem, they did tell me they had checked the bearing and it was fine, how do I know where the stop on the pedal needs to stop the pedal, at what point will I be pushing the pedal to far? Again thanx for your help!!

mantav8rally wrote:Thanx for your help, the release bearing seemed ok when I span it, is there a way of telling it's starting to sieze? Also when I bought the car It came with some spares and bits and bobs, there was a used release bearing in with all the bits and when I found it it was knackered, it wouldn't spin and had colapsed on one side, ie the metal face was pushed into the plastic housing so spinning like the walzars!! I wonder if that is what had happened to it whilst fitted in the car and they just rePlaced it without sorting the problem, they did tell me they had checked the bearing and it was fine, how do I know where the stop on the pedal needs to stop the pedal, at what point will I be pushing the pedal to far? Again thanx for your help!!

Based on the photos I would say that the release bearing is suffering the same fate as the knackered one in the box of spares. This is likely to be due to the release arm twisting and not sliding true.

The stop on the pedal should be installed so that it limits the pedal movement to the point where the clutch just clears. ie the point where it is just possible to select 1st gear without a crunch.
There is no need for the clutch action to be greater than this and additional movement could damage the diaphragm.

Regards Denis

I haven't had chance to do anything to sort my problem yet but today I found this release bearing in the garage which came with my car this is another one I have found as I mentioned finding one earlier in my posts, any thoughts, it's a little off centre again wonder if my clutch pull line bein out is what's causing this to happen to the bearing????????