The V8 Owners Forum -

Here you go a couple of photos of the mounting brackets

Thanks- looks like there is a bit of chopping to do on the front cross member! Think I have sorted the prob with the driveshafts now- just need so get a couple of cossy ones and modify the hubs...

Right! A bit more progress now (seems slow though), I finished modifying the rear subframe to take the Cossy 7.5" LSD and thanks to JSF55 suggesting Wisbech Engineering to get some Poly bushes from it is now mounted well in 6 points and the red bushes look great Also the cossy driveshafts are the perfect length and just have to modify the stub axles to suit which should be an easy enough job before the weekend, then the subframe can go back in.

I also started and finished the drive snout for the blower which I am VERY happy with! Started with a piece of 6" diameter billet ally and finished with the finished snout, it has a double row sealed bearing in the front, held in place with a flush fitting plate which also closes the gap between the snout and drive flange right up. The joint (though good!) will be hidden by the belt tensioner when I have made that and clamped it on. Anyway here are the pics (only a couple as would take ages to load otherwise!)




p.s. I got a K&N panel filter for a couple of quid from an autojumble and cut it and made a hold down bar to replace the solid top to the air filter inside the shaker box- should breathe a bit easier but not so pretty!

Also does anyone know how to fix the plate (base of the air scoop) onto the carb? Just has a loose fitting ring...

Stub axles modified, painted and in situ, and driveshafts bolted in. A little bit bigger than the original mx5 ones!!!!! Only prob is they are so big and the CV's stick out into the path of the dampers- you can see the mount which is pressed into the lower wishbone and in a nasty place with regards to moving it, which would be quite an involved task which is why I think I will be making adapters to move the shocks over about 30mm out of the way. Anyway apart from that I'm happy with how they came out!


TC

Hi TC, looking good, as for the base plate when i used them the filter has a plate on top and 1 nut holding it down and scoop just bolts to the plate in about 4 places, on my old one it had 2 support bars for the scoop, but that one is know sitting on the bonnet, rich

Well- weekends progress was ok, no turning over or spittin' flames yet tho
Pushrods now shortened by precision grinder and all preloads in spec:

Double checking everything still fits:

Gearbox bolted on (temporarily):

And the lump sitting in position, got through 2 slitting discs, a few knuckles, grinding teeth and a lump of sump but it now goes in and out quite easily!!!

Have got some bits of plate to cut to weld in the new engine mounts, unfortunately my tubular headers won't be going on without a lot of cutting and shutting so might have to use cast ones for now but never mind.

looking good TC, how much will be sticking out the bonnet? rich

topcatproduction wrote:Well not an awful lot to start with, but a couple of pics (didnt want my grinding work of sunday to go unseen!), smoothed pretty much the whole lot of the valley for faster oil drainage onto the cam and got rid of some of the nasty flash from the casting on the rest of the block, and did a little mock up as wanted to see how tall the lump is going to be!!! Beats working on Mini's!!!
The donor... engineless

half polished

polished!

The mock up!!!

what did you use for polishing? looks amazing great job!!
want to do the same now to mine!!
any tips?!?

cheers.

Cheers Rich, should only be about a foot (or so!) which is good- but my flash fuel regulator and earls goodies & gauge mounted on the polished ally blower backplate are now under the bonnet .......so will just have to move them up!!!

And Ashley, I did it with a die grinder and tungsten carbide burrs (Snap On- very happy with it and the bits) and is purely to help with oil drain back onto the cam and into the sump. Just a small detail that may make a little difference to the life of the engine and a pretty old skool mod I think, along with the oil drain holes in the front of the block above the timing gear.

p.s. You need to use some spray- cutting lubricant, WD40 or diesel would probably do the same job- to stop the ally clogging up the burr bit.

Well very little progress over the last few weeks but I have had my flywheel machined for the clutch so can bolt that on when I collect it then the gearbox can go on permanently, I have just finished the sump as well. After getting the SD1 oil pipe from JRV8 I could find out what else I needed to do to the sump and have welded it back up after the chopping to fit it inside the subframe! As you can see I made up a thick mounting plate so it didnt warp, also means I can do the next one twice as quickly


Just need to get some matt black on it now and stick it back on the motor!
TC

Oh- and I treated myself to (making) a full set of lifting gear for the, and any other V8, the lot in 10mm plate and I even have some nice shiny chain and baby shackles to go with the lot!

(saw where your ones were mounted onto the exhaust manifold studs Tony and looked like a good idea!)

Nice!

topcatproduction wrote: (saw where your ones were mounted onto the exhaust manifold studs Tony and looked like a good idea!)

Got my flywheel back from machine shop, they have taken a lot of the un-necessary weight off and it now takes the 7 1/4" twin plate no probs. Weighed in at about 15kg (32lb) before, now weighs 10kg (22lb) so should make a difference! All the weight came off the outside (as the clutch is about half the size) so that should make some difference too as will take less energy to spin it up with the mass closer to the middle. So can be bolted back on soon, with the gearbox then when I get the remote it can actually go in the car hopefully for good!

Does anyone know how to check the preload/clearance whatever in the clutch slave-rod so I can tell if the rod is the right length?

Only a tiny mod, got rid of the big fat old oil pick up and replaced it with the nice P38 type, because the feed hole is a lot smaller it should mean less chance of the oil sloshing around enough to expose it and let it gulp up air. Put a new bracket on there too for the support, plugged the end and diesel leak tested it, pass! Also put a small piece of 4mm bar across the bottom so if the sump ever gets knocked up from underneath there is no way the end of the pipe can get covered by it so there should always be plenty of room for oil to flow.


Now this is done I can properly bolt the sump on (SD1 type flange looks rubbish round the mating surface so I will have to use loads of sealer I guess ), flywheel, clutch and gearbox as have all the bolts I need too.