The V8 Owners Forum -

ihatesissycars wrote:Ok boosted, how much? Plus how much is resleeving blocks these days!!!

Hard to say what total costs are at the moment. Multiple castings as they come with heat treatment are appx £300 give or take a few £'ss. Machining them has always been the stumbling point especially if done as single items. I have to wait until a batch of rover cranks get done but I may have found a solution for the New year. If you know where to get the machining and oil ways drilled then it could be a bonus if my solution fails.


Edited to say that block sleeving is appx £700 depending on where you go.

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ihatesissycars wrote:£1100 for the 5.0 crank, wow thats alot of money but i'm guessing this crank is the daddy of rover cranks?

In the 5.0 build what pistons and rods do you reckon to use?

And what sort of rpm limits would a 5.0 litre engine with your crank be safe to?

The crank grind could cost less if you know your own grinder. This is what I'm looking at in the New year. The 5.0 kit used stock rover rods and an 'off the shelf' piston with a variety of compression ratios. I don't do it anymore as I'm more involved with bespoke builds. The pistons were ford. The key component is the crank, after that you can build up any spec of engine using chevy rods and custom pistons.

Boosted.

Gav If you are gonna increase the capacity of your engine id definately recommend you steer clear of the 4.8 stroker kits that are on the market. The can cost upto 16-1800 quid, and for a little more you can get much better gear. If you use one of Mikes cranks you can use small journal chevy rods without having to machine them to fit. I imported a set of eagle featherlight (510gms ea.) h-beam rods for around 300quid all in. I had to have them machined (thanks Mike ) which added to the cost somewhat but still ended up with a seriously good rod for a fraction of the price i wouldve paid for something similar over here. They are so light for a steel rod its hilarious and with the exchange rate as it is now it may even cost you even less than it cost me. That'll leave you with plenty of spare cash for forged pistons, not hypereutectic witch are no substitute for good forged pistons. Of course having a proper strong assembley will allow you to play with nitrous or tc/sc in the future too. If you can manage the extra few quid its a no-brainer.

i see, i'll have a think about this. I know of machine shops but no one i'd trust to grind up a completely raw casting so i'll have to do some phoning around to check.

Hairbear, if you don't mind me asking can i ask approx how much you reckon a total bottom end buil;d similar to yours would cost? I understand if you don't want to reveeal info on your build costs though! I need to get an idea of total costs if i were to go this route before i embark on it buying bits here and there.

What sort capacity have you achieved using which block/bore with your build?

ihatesissycars wrote:Hairbear. how much did it cost you to build your bottom end in total (if you don't mind telling that is!)

Andwhat capacity have you achieved using which block/bore?

behave gav

I dont mind Gav but my build may be slightly different than yours in that i'm not going for out and out displacement. The engine im building for the datsun is built to survive at higher rpm's and for that reason forged pistons and ligthweight parts are important. To be honest im building beyond my budget and this means the engine will take a while to get done. I buy a few more bits here and there each month if and when i can afford it. Rob at v8dev sold one of his 5.5 kits on ebay that icluded forged pistons, h-beam rods, T-hat liners (not installed) and a long stroke crank (one of Mikes i belive) for £2000. I dont know if he can repeat that deal now but i'm sure he can still get the parts. That is also pretty much what my rotating assembley is going to owe me once i get my pistons. For me its worth it because im having fun trying to squeeze the most i can from an RV8 (and my car is very light, so i dont need 600+ hp to go fast) but how many times have we heard "jeez - you could have had an LS1 for that" on this forum? Its just so true.

And in answer to your last question my capacity is 4.4 using 79mm stroke crank and a 94.5mm bore. At the moment im using a blueprinted 3.9 block that i got a good deal on but i have other blocks. I'd like to get one T-hat'd eventually but thats another expense and the 3.9 is too good not to use! I arrived at this combination by designing the engine to perform well with the valve sizes i'm using and to accomodate a long rod. A larger capacity would have a negative effect on both those fronts, reducing the rpm potential of the engine. (when your car weighs 750kg's too much torque just gets in the way!)

You're doing something like something else i was thinking about! My present bottom end is all new, arp'd up and fully balanced and also very young so i thought of doing the same but with forged pistons incorporating a higher comp (much like Ian S's) so that it has the ability to rev high. If i play my cards right and get some pistons for the £700 ish i've been quoted this'd release money to have my heads upgraded to stage 3 spec (or higher) which with another cam would build a really revvy mental bastard engine!

Hi,
Also be interested by an stroker Crank (94mm).
In the old Forum I have posted a topic about where machining an crank.
I have contacted some address in UK, and just order to machine one crank is expensive and time consuming.
In my case, I need of an crank with 2.5495'' main journal size.
So if next year is possible to find an easier solution to grind 94mm stroker crank, think to me

Does anyone know what sort of safe rev limit a standard 3.9 crank, rods and forged pistons (3.9 bore) would in theory have?

This would assume arp everthing, fully balanced and built correctly.

Oh, and how much lighteing of cranks etc can be done?

I have an engine in mind. . . . .

Hi
I have some questions about the 94 mm stroke.

In the book "How to power tune Rover V8 engines" by Less Hammill it is said that J.E.Engineering built an experimental engine with a 96mm stroke for but they found it a little harsh and discontinued the research into engines with strokes longer than 91.5mm.

In the same book I cannot find Wildcat engines with stroke longer than 92mm.
Does any of you have experience with engines with the 94mm stroke?

V8Develpoments sell a 5.5L engine. Does any one know this?

Blueman wrote:Hi
I have some questions about the 94 mm stroke.

In the book "How to power tune Rover V8 engines" by Less Hammill it is said that J.E.Engineering built an experimental engine with a 96mm stroke for but they found it a little harsh and discontinued the research into engines with strokes longer than 91.5mm.

In the same book I cannot find Wildcat engines with stroke longer than 92mm.
Does any of you have experience with engines with the 94mm stroke?

V8Develpoments sell a 5.5L engine. Does any one know this?

Yes, it's a good engine. My cranks inside, the engines on 96mm bore.

Boosted.

Mike do you know what the external diameter of the liners Rob uses for 96mm bore versus the outside diameter of a stock 94mm liner? just wanted to know exactly how much metal is lost? i guess the 96mm liner runs a smaller wall thickness to retain as much block material as possible, but i dont have the figures.

HairbearTE wrote:Mike do you know what the external diameter of the liners Rob uses for 96mm bore versus the outside diameter of a stock 94mm liner? just wanted to know exactly how much metal is lost? i guess the 96mm liner runs a smaller wall thickness to retain as much block material as possible, but i dont have the figures.

Hello Marcus, thought it was you Liners tend to be just over 1mm wall thickness if they are supplied finished honed or you can buy them thicker and hone them yourself. I don't know which ones Rob uses but there are likely candidates in liner catalogues.

Boosted.