rover 3.5 cooling

General Chat About Cooling & Overheating

Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators

Post Reply
mickjo
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:03 pm

rover 3.5 cooling

Post by mickjo »

just fitted a rr 3.5 engine in a stag, ran it up but within minutes it started to run hot, would of expected this to take 10-15 minutes, the temp gauge was rising rapidly really quickly. The rad has a new 4 core matrix. This feels cold in every part of the rad top/bottom etc.
upon several start ups tried the old heater and blower trick but cold air only. The hoses to the matrix heater feel very hot.
I also undid the top hose from the rad and water didnt come out at all.
My initial feeling is 80% the water pump failure, or 20% air lock. Is there a way of checking the water pump? should it come rushing out from the topof the rad on turn over?
mick


User avatar
ChrisJC
Top Dog
Top Dog
Posts: 5077
Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:13 pm
Location: Northants / Cambs
Contact:

Post by ChrisJC »

It does sound like water isn't circulating.

Given the rarity of water pump failure, I would think you've not got as much water in it as you think you have. Has the thermostat got a bleed hole in it?

Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
DEVONMAN
Top Dog
Top Dog
Posts: 1440
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Croydon UK

Post by DEVONMAN »

Hi. As ChrisJC said water pump failure is rare so next check is the thermostat. Remove it and check in boiling water. In addition it's probable you have an airlock in the heater pipes.
regards Denis
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!


Image
mickjo
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:03 pm

Post by mickjo »

the last thing I did last night was to remove the top hose from the rad, lift the hose high and secure it, and try to fill the engine block through the thermostat. the level dropped in the hose over a couple of hours so must be flowly slowly into the engine.
So I think both of you chrisjc and DEVONMAN are right, If this doesnt work then I'm going to remove the stat.

Thanks for your thoughts

mick
User avatar
Ian Anderson
Forum Contributor
Forum Contributor
Posts: 2448
Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Edinburgh

Post by Ian Anderson »

is your cabin heater on?

If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator

Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad

IAn
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
mickjo
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:03 pm

Post by mickjo »

Ian Anderson wrote:is your cabin heater on?

If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator

Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad

IAn
Just removed the stat, didn't open properly, so replaced it, will do as above tomorrow.
unstable load
Top Dog
Top Dog
Posts: 1279
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 6:53 am

Post by unstable load »

A quick test for a stat I use....

Push the stat open and slip a piece of string through it. When 'er indorrs is not looking, turn on the kettle and drop the stat in. Hold it off the bottom and you will soon see if it opens or not.


Alternative method for more domesticated types,
Put some water in a saucepan (?) find the stove and carry on from the string bit...... :twisted: :idea:
Cheers,
John
kiwicar
Forum Contributor
Forum Contributor
Posts: 5461
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Milton Keynes

Post by kiwicar »

If it involves a pan it's probably best to get your wife/ girlfriend to do it! :chase
Mike
poppet valves rule!
mickjo
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:03 pm

Thats it

Post by mickjo »

Seems to be a lot better now the rad is hot its getting scarily close to 190+ degc on the gauge though, think that its due to the megasquirt needing set up, seems to be overfueling, but thats another post.

Thanks for the help
User avatar
bodger
Guru
Guru
Posts: 870
Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:37 pm
Location: dartford area

Post by bodger »

check and make sure you havn't connected the hoes on the back of the water pump housing to the blanked off outlet .. on some there are 2 stubs pipes , only one is open ...

i only know becuse i did it :roll:
remember it's only a bodge if it DOSN'T worK
mickjo
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:03 pm

Hoes? not really into gardening much

Post by mickjo »

bodger wrote:check and make sure you havn't connected the hoes on the back of the water pump housing to the blanked off outlet .. on some there are 2 stubs pipes , only one is open ...

i only know becuse i did it :roll:

Ok now you've got me wondering. Looking down on the back of the pump there are 2 pipes, both connected, the RHS goes to the RHS cylinder head, the LHS is connected to a metal pipe that disappears under the plenum.

Image
Post Reply

Return to “Cooling Area”