Ballasted or not.

General Chat About Electrics, And Ignition Systems.

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CastleMGBV8
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Post by CastleMGBV8 »

Dave,

That doesn't sound right because you will only get the full 12v on start up and the feed will then revert to the ballasted supply which will only be 6-9v and not be sufficient to feed a 12v coil.

I would re-check what the coil actually requires as a continuous supply.

Kevin.


tetlow
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Post by tetlow »

Kevin.

I think the chaps meant that I should have a 12V direct supply too. At least they should, they are the experts. :lol:

I have removed the ballast resistor and intend to fit both supplies as I assume a fused 12V would drop when cranking.

Thanks again

Dave
Paul B
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Post by Paul B »

tetlow wrote:Kevin.

I think the chaps meant that I should have a 12V direct supply too. At least they should, they are the experts. :lol:

I have removed the ballast resistor and intend to fit both supplies as I assume a fused 12V would drop when cranking.

Thanks again

Dave
The whole system will drop voltage when you are cranking, there is no magical connection that gives a full 12 volts when you are trying to start the motor.

The whole idea of the ballast resistor is that your 9 volt coil still gets its full 9 volts when you are ranking, by bypassing the ballast resistor just during starting, then when the starter is let go the ballast comes back into the circuit to keep your 9 volt coil on 9 volts, not 12.

You have a 12 volt coil, so simply run 12 volts to it from your ignition switch, no need for twin wires from starters or any other electrickery like that.
tetlow
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Post by tetlow »

Job done.
Thanks chaps.
Dave
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