The V8 Owners Forum -

Def west ender wrote:(had the head on so took 30mins just to secure the DTI down and through the spark plug hole)

Any chance of a brief description on how you did that? I spent a few hours devising bad ways to this and then decided to give up until the weather warmed up a bit!

Version 4.0, somewhere in the Alps.

I'm thinking of moving to Norway for a change of scene, but don't to leave my V8 toy behind. Do we have any Norwegian V8ers?

Does anyone know whats involved in importing a car into Norway?

Some sort of SVA required, or just a few forms? The car's already uk registered on a Q plate.

cheers
Dave

chodjinn wrote:
*sigh*

I have to agree, I would not do the new rover route again.

The concept of "new" being better doesn't seem to apply to engines. (Certainly not Rovers!)

You can get the camshaft info you require from piper & kent online if you know what you have, don't know about other manufaturers...

Piper 270/2:- at full lift on no1 intake, the crank should be at 108 degrees, apparently.

It was mentioned that doing this on the rockers is a bit dodgy on ...

With the piper cam that I have, it gives you the angle which is max lift at 112deg ATDC for inlet and 112deg BTDC for exhaust.

Of course you'd need that info for your cam...

Chris.

Ah, OK, I thought their might be variations between cams. I'll find out the numbers from the supplier, and test ...

Obviously this is easier with the engine in pieces!
Chris.

I picked up a clock gauge on the way home (£17.25 from Tool Mart), but think I'll wait 'til the weekend before braving the garage.

I've been thinking I should establish real TDC, so this is a good reason.

Measuring the cam on a rocker ...

Mine was a bit similar in that the power was less than expected, the power band was narrower than normal and higher up the rev range than expected.
...
My advice would be to do a rough and ready check with a timing disc on the crank pulley and a clock gauge on a rocker; don't forget there's ...

Unless I am mistaken 4,6,8 have the longest ignition leads if using supressed leads and resistive "R" plugs this gives the spark a bit of a hard time giving its full power where you need it. The chop test is just telling you that these cylinders are poor power wise not compression wise.

I use a ...

Dave,

The relevance of cylinders 6 & 8 is that according to Des Hamill's excellent book "How To Power Tune Rover V8 Engine's" the most common area for cracks behind the liners on 4.0 and 4.6 engines.

I keep meaning to order that book.


Your compession test looks encouraging, but may not be ...

Eliot wrote:RIP must have a room full of those things! They are garbage. Make sure you carry 10 spare condensors, as they are famously unreliable.

My first condenser went within 500 miles... Definitely time to chuck it in my pile of used V8 bits!

Merry Christmas!

A fine boxing day spent in the garage so far... It looks like santa's fixed it for me!

cyl - bar (peak reading after 4 or 5 compression strokes, plugs out, large extra battery hooked on, warm engine, using a traditional gauge)

1 - 13
2 - 13.5
3 - 13
4 - 13
5 - 13
6 - 13 ...

Tom

I use a 3.36 ford diff in my little kit car with an LT77, on a little bigger diameter wheels, and that seems about right for motorway cruising. I'd guess the '5 is probably has a bit less drag... ?
I used to have a 3.62 ratio and found it a bit high. So the calculator sounds about right to me ...

If it wasn't for the fact that he's vanished off the face of the earth, I'd probably be forgiven for thinking it was a "Lund" engine......!
Or then again, maybe even an RIP one!

Good luck, hope you get it sorted properly.

Arr Badger, if RIP is an anagram, then yes, it was. Although they have ...

Dave,

Who supplied this engine, if it was a brand new turnkey engine shouldn't they be sorting out your problems?

Which pair of cylinders are showing low compression not 6 & 8 is it, that the two rearmost ones on the left looking from the front of the car.

Kevin.

I've lost all faith in other ...