The V8 Owners Forum -

I think someone does a set of adaptors to fit sbf rocker covers ...

I also had a stud pull out when torquing my ARP stud nuts down - so I did a helicoil by hand, using a second set of eyeballs and a couple engineers squares and it worked fine, though neaveracking! Used a two helicoils so I had enough thread engagement.

This is what I was thinking for a cheap ...

Motor is on engine stand , and I do have a big drill press but I cant really see a way to use that .
I sorta figured that the unc end of the stud will fit thru the bolt hole in the head ....and thusly so will a drill bit the right size to drill out the threads in the block ( might have to buy a ...

As above , I have acquired a good block that someone has stripped a couple of the threads in the block (fitted arp studs lubed everything with assembly grease and torqued to standard specs ) so Im going to have a go . Anyone got any brilliant ideas how to make sure the holes are drilled and threaded ...

scudderfish wrote: Sun Feb 22, 2026 2:40 pm Because mine are too small

IMG_20260222_143107684_preview.jpeg

That's close enough .....bash it on with a socket

I was finding it difficult to get the sump capacity I wanted so I fitted a remote filter mount thing with 2 filters and gained an extra 1.5 L of oil capacity .
Plus one for the remote filter

Im not sure but I would have thought that ( as you say )the more thrust support the better for a manual

One thing to bear in mind re piston stoppers .... make sure the piston is at TDC on the comp/power stroke .... not the ex stroke as the valves may not clear the piston stopper and bend or jam the valve . Some motors it will be ok others not so .

Some of them Holliey's have an idle circuit in the secondary barrels , to stop fuel going off if you dont open the secondaries for a while ......( cant imagine it myself :lol: ) . If the secondaries are open to far in the idle position adjusting the idle speed screw ( on the primaries ) right out ...

An original MGB rv8 would have "Rover " carbs being that it was fitted with a Rover 3.5l V8 . Not sure if they had SU carbs or the later Stromburgs . Unless your megga fussy either would do, tho I would prefer the SU's but I guess it depends what you can find
Just a thought , I have a performer ...

Real hard to tell from the vid
1st thing I would check is that it hasnt blown an ex manifold gasket , doesnt sound like its running on all cylinders , maybe check each manifold runner for even temps and if you can identify a dead cyl do a compression check ...... doesnt sound great tho

Well the 1st thing to do is to check your block by pressure testing it because far from all of these blocks actually crack .
My 3.9 had over 100,000kms on it so I assumed that if it was going to give that sort of trouble it would have done it by now , so I pressure tested the block and it held 40psi ...

Drilling the hole is easy , but it takes a lot of setting up. Clamping down something as large as a cylinder block aint easy , and then you either have to tilt the mill bed 45 deg , or the mill head has to tilt, then you have to locate the lifter bores. If you have damaged lifter bores I would start ...

just been thinkin about this . Seems that the packing with vaseline is the go to prime the pump . Is there any reason why one couldnt strategically fit a grease nipple to the pump cover to make priming easier .....specially if you have to do it often .

If you had a choice ( I do ) would you use the ...

Poor documentation and support in your country ? Australia ? is that for everybody ........or just you . I mean Aus ( much as I hate to admit it ) is hardly backward in technology ..... or motorsport.