The V8 Owners Forum -

Davo wrote: Tue May 15, 2018 4:56 am So the noise problem is solved?

You can find TDC easily enough through the #1 spark plug hole and set up the pointer from there.

Of course! Why didn't i think of that? Thanks.

And yes, it runs really quietly now.

The noise wasn't coming from the top of the engine at all, but once I had slowed the revs down to a sensible tickover I found the culprit was the timing pointer was loose and rubbing on the crank shaft pulley.

I had the revs up to run in the camshaft which I did successfully and it was whilst doing ...

I see from the invoice from Turner Engineering, from whom I bought the engine parts I needed, that the timing chain is part number ERC 7929 and is described as "Timing Chain - Floppy". So, when I came to rebuild the engine and the timing chain didn't seem to be very tight, I assumed that was because ...

I think there might be a dual chain timing chain - it is a long time since I rebuilt it. I put the stethoscope against the timing cover and there wasn’t much sign of the noise but I shall have another listen and see what I find.

I do remember being a little concerned about the camshaft and what ...

Only thing is...... I can't make the You Tube linky work. Tried pasting URL between Img brackets but doesn't work.




AHa! success! It's not an image!

And another which sounds worse than it does when standing by the car.

I am in the US at the moment so can’t do much for a few days

I have rune the engine with the rocker covers off and there is oil seeping out from either sides of each rocker with the engine only doing roughly 1500 rpm so I am happy that oil is getting where it should. There was very little noise ...

So is this more of a problem with a funny noise than with oil flow? Misbehaving lifters always seem to make a tap-tap-tap noise, nothing else that I'm aware of. If that's not the noise, then it may be something else.


I think you're right! I have reassured myself to the extent that I don't think ...

I checked the shafts for correct fitting. The identification groove (I think they call it) was in the correct one o’clock position for the left and right hand shafts according to my manual.

I have eliminated problems with lack of oil to the rocker shafts by running the engine with the rocker cover off and although the rockers over number 1 piston seems to be getting more oil than the one over no 7, oil is definitely getting up there.

Without a video of the noise, I don't expect anyone ...

Can I tell if they'r correctly fitted without removing the shaft? I certainly fitted shims and seem to remember there was a right and wrong way so I would like to think I got it right, but it was a couple of years ago when I did the rebuild.

Following a complete rebuild and first start up a rattly noise started to become evident as far as I could tell, from under the rocker covers. I have a great video but can't upload it onto the site. Anyway, I removed a rocker cover and there seems to be very little oil in evidence except for the oil ...

See if this helps:-

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q309/trakkies/mk1throttle_zpseqxt30i7.jpg

For some reason it has come out vertical.

The lever beside No11 is where the spring would go. On an auto, it looks to be different. That shaft continues to the back of the manifold for the gearbox ...

v8250 wrote:Just google image Rover SD1 Throttle Linkage, it's not that bloody hard...100's of images

Toss-pot

Which SD1? There were several carb varieties and EFI as well as auto and manual. So I'd guess there are different arrangements for the spring.

On my EFI, it runs from the cam that converts the cable to shaft to a bracket on the inlet manifold.

The only pic in BL manual is for the 175CD carbs. If ...

Could someone kindly post a photo of the standard SD1 throttle return spring arrangement on the inlet manifold. I am looking to replace the Heath Robinson fittings that a PO found acceptable. The carbs are SU HIF 6s. Many thanks.